When a recipe calls for chicken stock, always try and make your own as it really is so worth the effort (which to be fair, is not a actually a big deal). Why? Well, because not only does it taste better, it has no additives, it is so good for you with naturally occurring antimicrobial properties from the bones, and if using a cooked chicken carcass you are also getting more out of your bird and there is less waste.
This recipe uses a whole, uncooked chook, but I adapt it whenever I have any chicken leftover from my Sunday roast. Basically it’s a win win recipe.
Homemade chicken stock
It is always best to make a chicken (or any) stock at least one day ahead of you needing it, as the fat needs to be removed, leaving you with a lovely clean clear liquid. Once made the stock is left to go cold and then it is ready to refrigerate overnight. This sets the layer of fat on the surface of the stock, which can then be more easily removed the next day.
In France (where I live) you can buy several different types of chickens including a boiling chicken, which is an older bird with a good flavour, but the meat is tougher, due to the age. If you can’t get this where you live, a regular large chicken will do. If you can stretch to it, always buy free-range chickens, for ethical reasons.
If you end up making the stock, but not using it within a day or so, then pop it in to the freezer, where it will sit happily for up to 3 months.
Recipe
Makes: approximately 2L/8 cups (the one shown above has been reduced)
a few sprigs thyme a few black peppercorns, lightly bashed
If you are using a raw chicken, wash and dry inside and out, then place in a large saucepan. Add all the remaining ingredients and cover with 2.5L/10 cups of cold water.
Bring the water to the boil skimming the surface with a large spoon to remove any scum. Simmer gently, partially covered, for 3 hours. Strain the stock and leave to cool completely, then refrigerate overnight.
Carefully skim off the congealed layer of fat from the surface of the stock. You can now either use it as it is, or if you want a richer, deeper flavour then return it to the pan and cook again, uncovered this time, until it is reduced and has a depth of flavour you are happy with. Only at this point adjust the seasoning.
Tip. If using a cooked carcass, no need to wash it, simply pop it in the pan and continue as above.
This pungent, vibrant, intriguing spice has captured the hearts and imagination of thousands before me, leaving it’s stain on a fascinating and turbulent history. The tiny thread-like stigma from a variety of crocus known as crocus sativus is the world’s most expensive spice. It is used to colour and flavour food, dye clothes and as well as having some health benefits.
Ready to pick
Close up of the petals
The name derives from the Arabic word zafran, meaning yellow, a reference to the golden colour that saffron turns both our food and clothes. With bright purple flowers each plant only produces just 4 and each flower only 3 stigmas. It takes over 75,000 flowers to produce 500g of spice (450 for just 10g). Add to this the fact that even today saffron strands are picked and removed by hand, it’s easy to understand why saffron is, ounce for ounce, more expensive than gold.
Growing on rows
The pickers
From ancient times, it’s colour,
aroma and flavour seduced royalty. Cleopatra bathed in it, believing it made
her more alluring. The Romans alleged it would cure many ills. Indians used it to
dye clothes whilst Buddhist priests decreed that all their robes would be dyed
orange with golden saffron. Trade brought wealth and power to merchants and
growers but along with that came conflict culminating in a 14 day saffron war
in 1374.
Sorting through the flowers
Checking for impurities
Originating in the Arab world, saffron spread from India in the east and to Europe and as far as America to the west. By the 16th century it was being farmed in large quantities in England. Former geophysicist turned saffron farmer David Smale tells us “these days saffron is more associated with exotic locations such as Iran, Morocco and Spain, but in the past English saffron has been, by reputation, the best in the world”. David, among other British saffron farmers, is looking to put the UK back on the saffron map.
Piles and piles
Trimming the petals
Above all else saffron is
celebrated and loved for it’s culinary delights. The flavour is hard to define, but I liken it to a pungent, aromatic,
but slightly metallic honey with powerful overtones of hay or dry grass made
warm by the sun; it is both exotic and familiar. Often associated with rice
dishes such as Indian biryani, Arabic pilaf and Spanish paella this golden
spice is also the star of many classic seafood soups, bouillabaisse from
Marseille, being the most famous. It is just as good in sweet dishes such as
cakes, breads and even ice cream. I love to add a teaspoon of strands to vodka
or gin adding an aromatic flavour and glorious colour.
Dried and fresh saffron
Saffron facts you should know
Rich in Vitamins A, C and a good source of beta carotene, saffron has long been regarded as having medicinal benefits. It has antibacterial qualities and can aid digestion, help treat stomach aches and bronchitis. There are on going studies to see if it can be beneficial in helping prevent cancer.
Today over 90% of the saffron we buy is grown in Iran, often then being packaged in Spain.
Price does not necessarily indicate quality. Buy, try and find the brand you like best, from a reputable supplier.
Buy strands rather than the powder, which should be more red than yellow or orange. The redder the stigmas, the better the quality.
Add saffron cautiously, a little can go a long way and remember you can add but you can’t take away.
As a rule saffron is steeped in water or another liquid before being added to a dish as it isn’t water-soluble. However certain dishes, such as Indian biryani, Arab Pilaf and Spanish paella have the strands scattered over the top of the rice as it cooks, staining it that wonderful golden hue where it sits.
If you are lucky enough to have a saffron farm nearby, buy direct from them for freshness.
Recipes
Strawberry and saffron jam
Make: 4 x 300 ml jars
This recipe is adapted from one that is made at a local saffron fam in The Charente Maritime Safran de l’Estaire. The addition of saffron is subtle but intriguing. You will need a sugar thermometer for this recipe and because strawberries have a low pectin level the resulting jam is not as set as some, but nonetheless delicious.
2 teaspoons saffron strands
1.5kg strawberries, hulled
juice 1 large lemon
1.25 kg granulated sugar
Grind the saffron strands to form a
powder using a pestle and mortar. Set aside.
Put the strawberries and lemon
juice into a large saucepan and place over a low heat until the strawberries
soften. Then simmer gently, uncovered for about 20 minutes until really pulpy. Carefully
remove about 1/3 of the strawberries using a slotted spoon and set aside.
Add the sugar and the powdered saffron
and stir gently until the sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil and simmer without
stirring for about 40 minutes or until the jam reaches 105c/221f on a sugar
thermometer. Remove any scum from the surface of the jam.
Meanwhile, sterilise the jars. Wash
and dry the jars thoroughly and sit, facing upwards, in a roasting tin lined
with baking paper. Place in a preheated oven 100c/220f until required.
Ladle the jam straight into the hot
sterilised jars and seal immediately. Label and date the jars once the jam is
cold. Store for 2up to 12 months in a cool, dark place. Refrigerate once
opened.
Home semi-salted cod with saffron aioli
Serves: 4
Salt cod with aioli is a classic combination popular throughout Spain and southern France.
4 x 150 g cod fillets
2 tbsp sea salt
750g sweet potatoes, peeled and
cubed
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus
extra to drizzle
350g French beans, trimmed
a handful flat leaf parsley leaves
saffron aioli
1/4 tsp saffron strands
1 tbsp boiling water
2 egg yolks
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp white wine vinegar
200 ml mild extra virgin olive oil
Place the cod fillets in a plastic container. Scatter over the salt, turning the fish so that it is salted all over. Cover with cling film and place in the fridge for 2 hours. Turn the fish over half way through.
Place the saffron strands in a
small bowl and soak in boiling water for 5 minutes. Place the egg yolks,
garlic, mustard, vinegar and salt and pepper in a bowl and whisk with electric
beaters until pale and frothy. Very gradually whisk in the oil a little at a
time until the mixture thickens and becomes glossy. Add the saffron and the
liquid and whisk again. Cover the surface with cling film and set aside until
required.
Preheat the oven to 200c/400f/gas mark 6 and line a roasting tin with baking paper. Place the potatoes in the prepared tin, season well and drizzle over 1 tablespoon of the oil, stir well to coat. Roast for 40-45 minutes, stirring halfway through until the potatoes are browned and tender.
Wash and dry the salted fish. Place
the fish in a steamer, cover and cook for 4-5 minutes until cooked through.
Rest for a few minutes. Meanwhile, cook the beans in a pan of lightly salted,
boiling water for 2-3 minutes until al dente. Drain well.
Divide the potatoes and beans
between warmed serving plates and top with the fish and a spoonful of the
saffron aioli. Drizzle with a little extra oil. Garnish with some parsley and serve
at once.
Risotto Milanese with a twist
Serves: 4
A classic risotto Milanese is made with saffron and
frequently served with osso bucco.
Here the marrow bones are used on their own to add a lovely depth of flavour to
the rice dish.
4
small veal bones (ask your local butcher to source these for you)
4
sprigs fresh thyme, plus a few leaves to garnish
1-1.2
litres good quality chicken stock, heated until just boiling
½
tsp saffron strands
50g
butter
2
shallots, finely chopped
2
large garlic cloves, finely chopped
300g
Arborio rice
100ml
Italian dry white wine
50
g freshly grated Parmesan cheese
salt
and pepper
Preheat
the oven to 225c/425f/gas mark 7 and line a roasting tin with baking paper. Place
the veal bones in the prepared tin, sprinkle the marrow with salt and pepper
and top with a thyme sprig. Roast for 20-25 minutes until the marrow is hot all
the way through (check with a metal skewer) and sitting in a pool of melted
marrow. Keep warm.
Place
the stock and saffron strands in a saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer.
Meanwhile,
melt the butter and in a saucepan and gently fry the shallots and garlic with a
little salt and pepper over a low heat for 10 minutes until really soft, but
not browned. Add the rice and stir for about 1 minute until all the grains
appear glossy.
Increase
the heat to medium. Add the wine and simmer for 2-3 minutes until it is almost
all evaporated. Gradually start adding the gently simmering stock about 200 ml
at a time, stirring the rice constantly with a wooden spoon, allowing the rice
to absorb most of the stock before adding more. Continue this for about 20
minutes until the rice is al dente and the stock all but absorbed.
Stir
in the Parmesan and the juices released from the bone marrow and as soon as the
cheese is melted spoon into serving bowls. Place a roasted bone marrow in each
bowl and serve scattered with extra cheese and some thyme leaves.
Simple lamb brochettes with saffron
pilaf
Serves: 4
With its origins firmly imbedded in
the Middle East saffron is integral to many of the countries classic dishes and
pilaf is just one of these. Here the rice is cooked separately and served with
brochettes of spiced lamb.
250g basmati rice
500g boneless lamb neck
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp ground sumac
75g butter
2 onions, thinly sliced
2 tsp cumin seeds
4 cardamom pods, crushed
1 cinnamon stick, bruised
75g raisins
75g pistachio nuts, chopped
1 tsp saffron strands
2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander
juice 1/2 lemon
salt and pepper
Greek yogurt and lemon wedges, to
serve
Place the rice in a bowl and cover with
cold water, leave to soak for a couple of hours. Drain and shake dry.
Cut the lamb into small bite size
pieces. Combine 2 teaspoons of the sumac with the oil, salt and pepper and toss
with the lamb. Thread onto skewers and set aside until ready to cook. Combine
the remaining sumac with 1 teaspoon salt.
Melt 25 g of the butter in a frying
pan and fry half the onions with a little salt for 15 minutes until crisp and
golden. Set aside.
Melt the remaining butter in a
saucepan and fry the remaining onion and spices with a little salt and pepper
for 5 minutes. Add the rice, stir well to coat the grains and add 500ml water.
Bring to the boil and scatter over the raisins, pistachio nuts and saffron,
cover and simmer over a very gentle heat for 12 minutes. Turn the heat off and
leave to sit for a further 10 minutes, then stir in the coriander.
Meanwhile, char-grill the lamb
either under a hot grill or on a ridged grill pan for 2-3 minutes each side
until cooked on the outside but still pink inside. Transfer to a plate and
squeeze over the lemon juice.
Serve the rice scattered with the
crispy onions and the brochettes with some yogurt and the sumac salt.
Orange, cashew and saffron syrup
cake
Serves: 10
The saffron and orange syrup is poured over the cake as soon as it comes out of the oven, so it absorbs both flavour and moisture as it cools, resulting in a lovely aromatic and moist cake. It keeps well for 3 days wrapped in foil and stored in an airtight tin.
175g unsalted butter, softened
175g soft light brown sugar
grated zest 1 orange (juice
reserved)
3 eggs, lightly beaten
2 tbsp orange flour water
225g self-raising flour
1 tsp baking powder
75g cashew nuts, finely ground
orange and saffron syrup
pared zest and juice 2 oranges
125g caster sugar
1/2 tsp saffron strands
crème fraiche or Greek yogurt, to
serve
Preheat the oven to 170c/150f/gas
mark 3 and grease and line a 1kg loaf tin. Using electric beaters, beat the
butter, sugar and orange zest together until pale and creamy and then gradually
whisk in the eggs and orange flower water a little at a time until combined,
adding a little flour each time to prevent the mixture curdling. Fold in the remaining
flour, baking powder and ground cashews until evenly combined.
Spoon into to the prepared tin and
smooth the surface making a slight indent in the centre. Bake for 11/4 hours,
covering the surface of the cake with foil after 45 minutes if it begins to
brown. Pierce the cake with a skewer, if it comes out clean, the cake is ready.
Meanwhile, make the syrup. Place
the juice of all 3 oranges and the sugar in a saucepan and bring slowly to the
boiling, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Add the orange zest and simmer
for 5 minutes or until the mixture is thickened and syrupy. Remove from the
heat and stir in the saffron. Set aside to infuse, keeping it warm.
As soon as the cake is cooked,
pierce holes all over the surface using a metal skewer. Spoon over 2/3 of the
syrup and leave the cake to cool in the tin.
Turn the cooled cake out onto a platter and cut into slices. Serve drizzled with the remaining syrup and some crème fraiche or Greek yogurt.
It’s hard to bemoan the summer harvest when you have lovingly cared for your soil, seedlings, shoots, plants and finally the fruits, but given that I only planted 1 courgette plant this year, I am still struggling to use all my courgettes! I have of course travelled the well trodden path of shredding, spiralling, grating, frying, pickling et all, but just when I had got to the end of my courgette recipe tether, I remembered a truly wonderful soup I enjoyed a year or so back in a small cafe in Beckles, Suffolk in the UK. It was of course the recipe of today’s blog.
Today’s freshly picked courgettes and mint, sadly the lemons were shop bought. If straight from the garden, wash well and then pat dry.
Firstly, trim courgettes and cut approximately into 2 cm chunks. Take 1 lemon, chop roughly into abut 12 pieces. Add to a paper lined roasting tin with some, salt, pepper and a good slug of olive oil. Stir well. Then into the oven.
Meanwhile, peel, trim and finely chop some garlic cloves and an onion or too, depending on the size.
You’ll also need to finely grate the zest of a second lemon. Remember if they are waxed, give them a good wash and dry before using.
While the courgettes are roasting you can start frying the remaining ingredients in a large saucepan. Use olive oil and add some salt and pepper to the pan. I like a small pinch of chilli flakes here, but this is optional.
Once the onion has softened you want to measure your chicken stock. I always make my own stock, but you can use stock cubes. I measure the amount I need, then make sure I have a little but more, just in case I need to thin the soup down.
At this stage the courgettes should be nicely browned. Have a peak in the oven and remove them or continue to cook for a while longer, if necessary. You can see in the pic, that both the courgettes and the lemons have charred edges.
Using tongs, pick out and discard the lemons, squeezing any juice back into the pan. Scrape all the courgettes and pan juices into the waiting saucepan, then add enough stock to just cover the courgettes. Bring the pan to a simmer and cook.
While the stock comes to the boil, roughly chop a good handful of the picked mint leaves and squeeze the lemon juice.
And now for my secret ingredient – well obviously not so secret now! I like to add a good slug (about 2 teaspoons) of runny honey. The sweetness is the perfect balance for the sourness of the lemons. Add, taste, then add more if needed.
Once the soup has simmered for a few minutes you can add the remaining ingredients. The soup is now ready to blend – I like to blend it as is, check I am happy with the texture and if necessary, I will add a little more stock and heat through.
RECIPE
Roasted Courgette Soup with Lemon and Mint
Now we are ready to eat. I thorough recommend drizzling another good slug of olive oil over each serve – don’t forget to the bread to mop the bowl clean. Enjoy
Serves: 4
4 large courgettes, roughly chopped
2 lemons
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1-11/4 litres chicken or vegetable stock
A large handful roughly chopped mint leaves
2 teaspoons honey
Salt and pepper
Preheat the oven to 220c. Cut the courgette into 2 cm chunks and place in a roasting tin lined with baking paper. Cut 1 lemon into similar size chunks and add to the pan with half the oil, salt and pepper. Stir well and roast for 30-35 minutes, stirring halfway through, or until the courgettes are browned and softened. Discard the chunks of lemon.
Finely grate the zest of the remaining lemon and squeeze the juice into a separate bowl.
Heat the remaining oil in a saucepan and fry the onion, grated lemon zest, garlic and a little salt and pepper for 5 minutes until soft. Add the roasted courgettes and any pan juices and pour in the stock.
Bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes.
Add the lemon juice, mint leaves and honey. Process with a stick blender or in a liquidiser until really smooth. Adjust seasonings to taste and serve hot, or if preferred allow to cool, chill and serve cold.
It’s not just teddy bears that love eating outside, we all do. It is about fresh air, the smells, the sounds, the sights of the countryside that make us feel better, make us want to head for the hills (or back garden).
For me it also brings back childhood memories of harvesting, hay bales and after school picnics with mum and dad in the fields (funny how your memory tricks you into believing that every summer was hot and sunny…….. I suspect the truth is that many such afternoons were out on hold until the rain cleared!
It doesn’t matter if you only have access to a small piece of outside space, you can pretty much picnic anywhere, it is literally just about being outside where food seems to taste that much better. So if you get the chance, cook some of these great picnic dishes, pack up a few baskets or boxes and head out and make hay whilst the sun shines.
Marinated goat cheese with garden vegetables
Perfect for an alfresco summer spread, this marinated goat’s cheese goes well with lots of crusty bread and young veggies and crisp salad leaves. You need to make these up to 3-4 days ahead to allow the time for the flavours to penetrate the cheese. Keep in a cool dark place.
Serves: 6-8
1 tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
400 ml extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, halved
2 small red chillies, bruised
2 sprigs fresh rosemary, bruised
2 bay leaves, bruised
400 g fresh goat cheese (without rind; fridge cold)
selection of fresh summer vegetables, lettuce and bread rolls, to serve
Put the fennel and coriander seeds in a heavy-based pan, then heat gently until fragrant and beginning to pop. Add the oil, garlic, chillies, rosemary and bay, then warm gently to infuse. Leave to cool. Remove the garlic and rosemary.
Use your hands to roll the cheese into 18 small balls and put in the jar or container. Pour the oil over the top and store in a cool place (see headnote). Serve the goat’s cheese balls with summer veg/salads and bread, all drizzled with a little of the infused oil.
Tear and share feta and herb bread
A gorgeous cheesy bread, flecked with feta and fresh herbs, is something great to share with friends for an alfresco feast in the garden. It goes really well with the goat’s cheese balls too.
Serves: 6
500g unbleached white bread flour
7 g sachet fast-acting dried yeast
2 tsp sea salt, plus extra for top
1 tsp sugar
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
large handful fresh parlsey, chopped
handful fresh chives, chopped
1 egg, lightly beaten
Put the flour in a large mixing bowl and stir in the dried yeast, salt and sugar. Make a well in the middle and gradually work in 3 tbsp of the oil and enough of the warm water to form a soft dough. Tip the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 8-10 minutes until smooth and elastic. Transfer to an oiled bowl, cover with a clean tea towel and leave to rise in a draught-free place for an hour or until doubled in size.
Meanwhile, mix the feta, parmesan and herbs in a bowl with the rest of the oil, then cover and chill.
Gently knead the dough once or twice (this is called knocking back) and roll out on a lightly floured surface to make a 25cm x 35cm rectangle. Sprinkle evenly with the cheese and herb mixture.
Roll the dough up from one long side to make a log shape. Cut into 7 thick slices, each around 5cm wide. Arrange 6 slices, cut-side up, in a circle on the prepared baking sheet, roughly 3cm apart, then put the last one in the middle and cover loosely with cling film. Leave to rise (prove), loosely covered with cling film, for 30-40 minutes.
Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/ gas 4. Brush the top with the beaten egg. Bake for 40-50 minutes until risen, golden and cooked through. Cover the top with foil if it starts to brown too quickly. When ready, transfer the tin to a wire rack for 5 minutes to cool. Remove the loaf from the tin and wrap the bread in a clean tea towel as it cools.
Persian chicken with spiced yogurt
Chicken marinated in cinnamon, cardamom, turmeric, cumin, honey and lemon, before roasting, is a gorgeous summery recipe that’s a doddle to make.
Serves: 6
6 chicken legs
1 tsp ground cinnamon
6 cardamom pods, seeds removed and ground
1 tsp ground turmeric
1/2 tsp ground cumin
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp clear honey
grated zest and juice 1 lemon
150ml Greek yogurt
a handful fresh picked parsley leaves
Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Line a large roasting tin with non-stick baking paper. Divide the chicken legs into drumsticks and thighs by cutting through the joint with a sharp knife. Put in a large mixing bowl.
In a small mixing bowl, mix the spices with the olive oil, honey, lemon zest and juice and some salt and pepper. Pour over the chicken and toss well to coat all over.Put the chicken in the prepared roasting tin and roast for 45 minutes until golden and tender, turning Put the chicken in the prepared roasting tin and roast for 45 minutes until golden and tender, turning
Put the chicken in the prepared roasting tin and roast for 45 minutes until golden and tender, turning over halfway through and basting the chicken with pan juices.
Put the chicken on a board (or platter if serving straightaway) to cool. Put 2 tablespoons of the pan juices in a bowl with the yogurt, then mix well and season to taste. To serve, drizzle the yogurt over the chicken and scatter with parsley.
Pearl barley and aubergine salad with pomegranates
A make-ahead salad recipe, with pearl barley and aubergine, that’s great for a packed lunch or picnic on a summery day.
200 g pearl barley
2-3 tbs olive oil
1-2 aubergines (about 500g) thickly sliced
250 g cherry tomatoes, halved
1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
80 g pomegranate seeds
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 tsp pomegranate molasses
2 tbsp each fresh mint, parsley and coriander, roughly chopped
handful of rocket leaves
Cook the pearl barley according to the packet instructions (about 40 minutes). Drain, refresh under cold water to cool and drain well. Put in a mixing bowl.
Heat a griddle or frying pan over a high heat. Put the olive oil in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper, then brush all over the aubergine slices. Cook for 3-4 minutes on each side until charred and tender. Set aside until cool, then roughly chop. Add to the pearl barley with the tomatoes, red onion and half the pomegranate seeds.
Put the remaining pomegranate seeds in a small sieve. Using a wooden spoon, press out all the juice from the seeds into a small bowl. Discard the seeds in the sieve, then whisk in the extra-virgin olive oil, pomegranate molasses and a little salt and pepper to taste.
Just before serving, stir in the herbs and dressing, then serve scattered with the rocket leaves.
Roasted peppers with basil
A simple vegetarian starter recipe; red peppers are slow-cooked – with tomatoes, thyme and capers – until soft and sweet then served with fresh basil. One for the glorious summer months.
Serves: 6
3 large red peppers
2 garlic cloves, crushed
6 large cherry tomatoes, halved
3 thyme sprigs, leaves only
2 tbsp capers, drained and rinsed
3 tbs extra virgin olive oil
1 bunch basil leaves
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
handful fresh basil leaves
salt and pepper
Heat the oven to 220°C/ 200°C fan/ gas 7 and line a roasting tin with non-stick baking paper. Cut each pepper in half lengthways through the stalk, then scoop out and discard the seeds and membrane. Put the peppers cut-side up in the prepared baking tray and divide the garlic, tomatoes, thyme leaves and capers between them. Drizzle with oil, then season with salt and pepper and roast for 30 minutes.
Add a drizzle of balsamic vinegar to each pepper and roast for a further 10-15 minutes until caramelised and tender. Cool and serve at room temperature, scattered with fresh basil.
Chocolate swirl meringues, berries and white chocolate sauce
Try these decadent chocolate meringues for your summer picnic; they are easy to make ahead and assemble when you’re ready for them.
Serves: 4
40 g dark chocolate, chopped
4 medium free-range egg whites
225g caster sugar
1 tsp white wine vinegar
1/2 tsp vanilla essence
300 g mixed summer berries
For the sauce
250 ml single cream
2 medium free-range egg yolks
2 tsp cornflour
75 g white chocolate, chopped
Heat the oven to 150°C/130°C fan/gas 2. Line 2 baking trays with non-stick baking paper. Melt the dark chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, stirring occasionally (don’t let the bowl touch the water). Set aside.
Put the egg whites in a large, clean mixing bowl and, using an electric hand-held mixer, whisk to stiff peaks. Gradually whisk in the sugar a tablespoon at a time until the mixture is thick and glossy. Beat in the vinegar and vanilla extract.
Drizzle the melted chocolate over the egg mixture and carefully stir once to swirl the chocolate through without combining it completely. Spoon the meringue mixture onto the prepared baking trays to make 12 meringue mounds.
Transfer the trays to the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 140°C/ 120°C fan/gas 1. Bake for 1 hour or until the meringues are set and pull away easily from the paper. Cool on a wire cooling rack.
Meanwhile make the sauce: heat the cream in a small pan until steaming (don’t boil). In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks, cornflour and sugar until smooth, then stir in the hot milk. Return to the pan and stir gently over a low heat until the mixture comes to the boil. Turn down the heat and simmer for 2 minutes, stirring continuously, then remove from the heat. Stir in the white chocolate until melted, then pour into a bowl, cover the surface with cling film and leave to cool completely. Once cool, keep in the fridge. Decant into an airtight container to pack.
Serve the meringues with the berries and a drizzle of the white chocolate sauce.
Sweltering temperatures in Europe and beyond have us all craving a little respite and what better way to cool down than with a thirst quenching ice lolly – oh the sheer joy of a popsicle! Today’s fruitier, healthier, innovative and wide ranging versions of frozen ice on sticks are a far cry from the fluorescent, mass-produced, overly sweet versions from our childhood. From artisanal producers to innovative chefs the 21st century popsicle has arrived. Here are a few of my favourites from my latest book The Popsicle Party, published by Ryland, Peters & Small and Cico Books.
Refreshing apple and cucumber pops
Makes: 6-8 popsicles
The name says it all really and so pretty. It’s also great for kids who think they don’t like cucumber. Give them one of these and see just how easy it can be!
4 apples
3 Lebanese cucumbers
Juice 2 limes
100g sugar
Quarter and core ½ an apple and cut into wafer thins slices. Take 1/2 a cucumber and again cut into wafer thin slices. Reserve the slices.
Pass the remaining apples and cucumber through a juicer. Add the lime juice and sugar and stir until the sugar is completely dissolved.
Divide the apple and cucumber slices between the 6-8 moulds and top up with the apple and cucumber syrup. Either add the sticks at this stage or freeze until the mixture is firm enough to add the sticks. Return to the freezer for a further 4-6 hours until frozen. .
To remove the popsicles from their moulds, dip into hot water for a second or two. Gently pull from the moulds.
Lime, pomegranate and rosewater popsicles
Makes: 8 small (80ml)
Pretty in pink may well have been the name of a 70’s pop song, but it works equally well to describe this delicious and refreshing fruit popsicle. The rosewater is lovely with the flavour of the pomegranate and gives it that Middle Eastern allure.
4-5 pomegranates
Juice 2 limes
30 g caster sugar
2 teaspoons rosewater or orange flower water
fresh rose petals, dried rose petals and lime wedges, to garnish (optional)
Cut the pomegranates in half over a bowl lined with a large sieve to catch all the juice. Setting 1/2 a pomegranate to one side, squeeze out as much of the juice as you can from the seeds pressing the seeds down with a metal spoon.
Measure the juice, you need 500 ml for this recipe (chill the rest to drink).
Stir the lime juice, sugar and rosewater into the pomegranate juice and stir until the sugar is dissolved.
Divide the reserved pomegranate seeds between 8 small popsicle moulds and pour in the juice. Either add the sticks at this stage or freeze until the mixture is firm enough to add the sticks. Return to the freezer for a further 4-6 hours until frozen.
To remove the popsicles from their moulds, dip into hot water for a second or two. Gently pull from the moulds.
Banoffee salted caramel creams
Makes: 8
Not sure what there is to say about this other than make it, freeze it, eat it – oh so delicious.
4 tablespoons golden syrup
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
2 bananas
300 ml double cream
25 g caster sugar
25 g blanched almonds
1 tablespoon cold water
a little sea salt
4 tablespoons butter caramel sauce
Place 3 tablespoons of the golden syrup and cocoa powder in a bowl and stir well the cocoa powder is dissolved and the syrup smooth.
Place the bananas, cream and sugar into a blender and blend until completely smooth. Pour the banana cream into 8 popsicle moulds. Carefully drizzle in the chocolate syrup and using a skewer swirl through the cream to form a ripple effect.
Either add the sticks at this stage or freeze until the mixture is firm enough to add the sticks. Return to the freezer a further 4-6 hours until frozen.
Meanwhile, line a small tray with foil. Place the almonds, water and the remaining golden syrup in a small frying pan. Heat gently until the syrup begins to boil. Increase the heat and cook for 3-4 minutes until the almonds are browned and glazed with the syrup.
Transfer the nuts to the prepared tray and sprinkle with salt. Leave to cool. As soon as they are cold, chop roughly.
When ready to serve, pop a small metal tray lined with baking paper into the freezer for 10 minutes to chill. To remove the popsicles from their moulds, dip into hot water for a second or two. Gently pull from the moulds.
Place the popsicles on the prepared tray and immediately drizzle over the caramel sauce and top with the nuts. Return to the freezer for 10 minutes to set.
Tutti Frutti
Makes: 8
Remember ‘rockets’ that multi-coloured ice pop from your childhood? This homemade version looks great and tastes even better than the original.
250 g caster sugar
500 ml cold water
2 oranges
1 lemon
2 limes
125g raspberries
Place the sugar and water in a saucepan and heat gently, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Boil for 1 minute, then remove from the heat and cool completely.
Squeeze the juice of the oranges, the lemon and limes into separate bowls. Add enough of the sugar syrup to sweeten each fruit juice, ending up with approximately 150 ml of each juice (you will still have sugar syrup leftover).
Place the raspberries in a blender with 100 ml of the remaining sugar syrup. Blend until really smooth and then taste for sweetness, adjust accordingly.
Pour a layer of the orange juice into each of 8 popsicle moulds. Transfer to the freezer and allow the mixture to freeze completely (about 1 hour).
Pour in an equal layer of lime juice. Either add the sticks at this stage or freeze until the mixture is firm enough to add the sticks. Freeze again until firm and repeat this process withy the remaining 2 juices. Return to the freezer for a further 4-6 hours until frozen.
To remove the popsicles from their moulds, dip into hot water for a second or two. Gently pull from the moulds.
Buttermilk, raspberry and pistachio pops
Makes: 6 popsicles
Here yogurt and buttermilk are sweetened with agave syrup, a recent addition to the many different types of sweeteners and sugars, has a lower GI than many alternatives as it is largely a fructose based sugar. Now widely available from health food stores and supermarkets, it shouldn’t be too difficult to find – honey can be substituted.
250 ml Greek yogurt
250 ml buttermilk
150 ml agave syrup
125 g fresh raspberries
25 g finely chopped, unsalted pistachio nuts
Whisk the yogurt, buttermilk and agave syrup together until combined.
Divide the raspberries between 6 moulds and top up with the buttermilk mixture. Either add the sticks at this stage or freeze until the mixture is firm enough to add the sticks. Return to the freezer for a further 4-6 hours until frozen.
To remove the popsicles from their moulds, dip into hot water for a second or two. Gently pull from the moulds and dip the ends into the chopped pistachio nuts.
Cool watermelon, strawberry and lemon pops
Makes: 8-10 popsicles
All you need is a slug of vodka and you’d have the perfect frozen daiquiri! But, hey who needs alcohol when you can enjoy this healthier fruit version in the form of an ice pop.
300g strawberries, hulled and halved
3 tablespoons icing sugar, sieved
500 g watermelon
Juice 1 lemon
Combine the strawberries with the sugar and leave for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Discard the watermelon rind and dice the flesh.
Place the strawberries and all the juices, the watermelon and lemon juice in a blender and blend until smooth. Divide the juice between 8-10 small popsicle moulds.
Either add the sticks at this stage or freeze or leave until the mixture is firm enough to add the sticks. Return to the freezer for a further 4-6 hours until frozen.
To remove the popsicles from their moulds, dip into hot water for a second or two. Gently pull from the moulds.
Without wishing to offend churros oficianados, here is my version of this delightfully light, fluffy and totally divine Spanish doughnut. Traditionally Spanish churros are piped, in an almost figure of eight shaped whirl, directly into hot fat and deep-fried before being coated in cinnamon sugar. They can be served as simply as that or they can be served alongside a steaming cup of real hot chocolate. For a slightly more wicked treat I like to dunk them or drizzle them with melted chocolate flavoured with Pedro Ximenez, an intensely dark, sweet dessert sherry.
Having always been a lover of doughnuts (not that surprising really – deep-fried batter, crispy on the outside, light and fluffy in the centre and then dipped in spiced sugar – who wouldn’t) but actually not that crazy about the jam filled ones, I was wowed when I first came across churros on a holiday in Majorca, one of Spain’s Balearic islands – the fact that they were served with chocolate was the icing on the cake.
Developed centuries ago by
Spanish shepherds in the hills, where cooking was limited to cooking over a log
fire, a cake-like batter was dropped into hot fat until crisp and then serve
dusted with cinnamon sugar. Naturally enough the idea caught on and today this
wonderful snack food is popular all over the world, in one form or another.
And now that I live in SW France, the Spanish border is a short drive away, so I get to enjoy one of my favourite dishes much more often with regular trips to Spain’s Basque region. Luckily they have also caught on here in France and you often find a churros van at the local markets and fetes. Normally in France they tend to be served either completely straight or more like these ones, but really the shape is completely up to you – whether you a curly fan or a straight fan – they still taste the same!!
So let’s get cooking.
You will need water, butter – salted or unsalted, is your choice – plain flour, a pinch of salt, 3 medium eggs, caster sugar and cinnamon for the churros. Then for the sauce you need dark chocolate, single or pouring cream and a small glass (or two) of Pedro Ximenez sherry.
Pour the water into a medium saucepan, adding the butter. Place over a low heat until the butter melts. – you are literally warming it enough to melt the butter and there is no need to boil the mixture.
Remove the pan from the heat and tip in the flour and salt in one go. Then beat well with a wooden spoon until it becomes thick and sticky and the mixture comes away from the pan edges.
At this stage you need to allow the batter to cool slightly, so that when the eggs are whisked in, the heat is not so high that it starts to cook the eggs – they will cook once the batter is piped and fried – so using either a balloon whisk or electric beaters, whisk in them in one at a time until you have a smooth batter.
Spoon the glossy batter into a piping bag fitted with a 1 cm star nozzle. Make sure you scrape in as much of the batter as you can, don’t waste any! Meanwhile, heat a good amount of vegetable oil in a wok or heavy-based pan, to a depth of about 7 cm, until it reaches 180c on a sugar thermometer (or until a small amount of the dough sizzles as soon as it is dropped into the oil).
Carefully pipe 15 cm lengths of the dough straight into the oil, using a knife to cut the dough off right by the nozzle. Fry 3-4 churros at a time for 2-3 minutes until crisp and golden, turning half way through using metal tongs. As soon as the churros are cooked, remove them using a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen towel. You can keep them warm in a moderate oven heated to 180C/325F/Gas Mark 4 if you like, whilst cooking some more.
Whilst the churros are cooking, you should have time to mixc the sugar with some cinnamon. Place the mixture on a plate and as soon as the churros are ready roll them in the sugar until they are evenly coated.
Meanwhile, heat the chocolate and cream together in a small pan over a low heat until the chocolate melts. Remove from the heat and stir until smooth, then add the sherry. If you prefer you can do this ahead and warm the sauce through just before serving.
Arrange the churros on a platter and serve with the chocolate and Pedro Ximenez sauce for dipping or if you like drizzle it all over the churros.
RECIPE
Churros
with chocolate and Pedro Ximenez sauce
Serves: 6-8
250 ml water
120 g butter
180 g plain flour, twice
sifted
pinch salt
3 medium eggs (size 3)
75 g caster sugar
2 tsp ground cinnamon
100 g chocolate
150 ml single cream, plus
extra to drizzle
a small glass Pedro Ximenez
sherry
vegetable oil for frying
Heat the water and butter in a saucepan over low heat until the butter melts.
Tip in the flour and salt and beat well with a wooden spoon until the mixture comes away from the pan edges.
Cool for 5 minutes, then whisk in the eggs one at a time, using electric beaters or a balloon whisk, until you have a smooth batter.
Spoon into a piping bag fitted with a 1 cm star nozzle.
Heat vegetable oil in a large heavy-based pan to a depth of 7 cm until it reaches 180c on a sugar thermometer (or until a small amount of the dough sizzles as soon as it is dropped into the oil).
Carefully pipe 15 cm lengths of the dough straight into the oil, using a knife to cut the dough. Fry 3 at a time for 2-3 minutes until crisp and golden, turning half way through using metal tongs. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen towel.
Combine the sugar and cinnamon on a plate and roll the doughnuts in the mixture until coated.
Meanwhile, heat the chocolate and cream together in a small pan over a low heat until the chocolate melts. Remove from the heat and stir until smooth, then add the sherry.
Arrange the churros on a platter and serve with the chocolate and Pedro Ximenez sauce for dipping.
So looking forward to a whole new year of exciting cooking classes at Come Cook In France. As well as some of my regular classes, this year I am adding some full day and residential courses, hosted by the wonderful Les Soeurs Anglaises in The Dordogne.
Dinner is served at Les Soeurs Anglaises after a wonderful day of cooking
The Cook Club courses are held in my kitchen at home and run from 9.30am to 2.30 pm. We cook up until about 1 pm when we sit down and enjoy the fruits of our morning’s labours. I run approximately 2 Cook Clubs per month.
The first course of the year is a fascinating look into some of my favourite Japanese dishes. I will be explaining some of the more unusual ingredients. I will demonstrate prepare and cook gyozas. Then together we will make Udon noodle soup with salmon and a tataki of beef.
This is always a hugely popular course and this year we will be stuffing lasagne sheets to make cannelloni, hand-cutting pappardelle and using a pasta machine to make different flavoured linguine. You can then make one of 3 different sauces to serve with your own home made pasta.
So many people seem a little fearful of cooking fish, yet are huge fans of eating it. This course is perfect as we look at some of our favourite whole fish and get to grips with scaling, filleting and cooking several completely different varieties.
This is one of my favourite courses as I like to take some of the classic French dishes such as duck confit or tart tatin and give them my own twist. So duck confit could be spiced with star anise and hoisin sauce before roasting, whilst fresh mango makes a quite delicious tart tatin, especially with home-made palm sugar ice cream.
As a huge fan of South East Asian cookery I love introducing people to the amazing flavours and unusual ingredients of this fascinating cuisine. We chop, slice, crush, pound and fry some of the most yummy dishes you can imagine.
The first day course of the year is such an exciting one. Hosted by Les Soeurs Anglaises we will have access to a pizza oven in order to cook up some truly awesome pizzas. After an introduction of how to get your pizza oven started up, we will make pizza dough, allowing time for it to rise. In the meantime we will crack on with all the yummy toppings, finishing the afternoon off our wood smoked pizzas, fresh from the oven.
I am super excited about my first residential cookery course at Les Soeurs Anglaises. After a meet and greet welcoming dinner we will spend 3 days preparing, cooking, eating, dining, relaxing and sharing foodie stories in the beautiful surroundings of our accommodation. Using locally produced and sourced ingredients we will cook French inspired dishes with a nod to modernity.
Please email me at louise@comecookinfrance.com or go to my contacts page for more details.
A dinner inspired by spring, the weather, Scandinavian design, great quality ingredients and sharing ideas and recipes with great friend, food writer Mary Cadogan.
This spring is cold and wet and reminds me very much of the year we arrived in France from Sydney in 2013. We landed in May expecting balmy days and cool but pleasant evenings, but instead it was cold, wet and very grey. Not quite what we had expected but then not much one can do about the weather but get on and do what you love doing best – cooking, eating and sharing meals with friends.
For me inspiration comes from many different things. Travel, shared stories, design, colour, books and loads more. This menu came to Mary and I over a cup of tea (and one of Mary’s delicious ginger cakes) in her kitchen back in early 2014. We decided to collaborate on a Scandinavian inspired dinner and so together we set about creating a meal full of exciting flavours, colours and textures that we felt were all synonymous with the Scandinavian culture.
We start with an apero. Mary’s delicious red currant vodka served with my take on cured herrings. Steep red currants and sugar in a good quality vodka for 2 weeks, turn the bottle and gently shake every few days to help disperse the flavours. The resulting liqueur is vibrant red, slightly sweet and reassuringly warming.
Making the most of the terrific mini blinis so readily available in the supermarket I topped them with smoked herring, creme fraiche, shredded apple and poached quail’s eggs. I like the smoky richness of the fish and the eggs balanced with the freshness of the crisp apple.
The first course is one of my favourite ways of serving a young goat cheese like the Chabichou from the region. Lightly whipped with a little buttermilk and a good fruity extra virgin olive oil. I then serve it with homemade crisp breads flavoured with dill seeds or anise. The flavours combine well and the starter is light. I love the contrasting colours here too with nigella seeds and a touch of summer with nasturtium petals and a few salad leaves. It tastes as fresh as it looks.
For the main course we opted for a meat and a fish dish, either as a sharing course, or for those who have a preference for one or the other. Mary’s marinated salmon (barbecued on a cedar plank giving the fish a lovely deep smoky flavour) is served with pickled vegetables to offset the richness of the fish – it is a fabulous example of a well balanced dish.
Cooking on cedar planks is is actually an ancient way of cooking something that needs to be protected from the fierceness of the flames or heat, as in indirect grilling. The Finnish have loimulohi (blazing salmon) where the fish is nailed to a plank and cooked over coals and the North West coast American Indians used red cedar planks to cook pacific salmon on. Today you can buy varying sizes of cedar planks online or make your own. The wood is pre-soaked in water to prevent it from catching fire. It is fun and does add a light smokiness to the fish.
Spring heralds the arrival of young lambs born over winter and fed on the tender sweet grass shoots that give the meats it’s lovely flavour. Lamb works well with fruit and although fresh red currants are out of season, they are a fruit that freezes exceptionally well, even still on the stalk (as a stylist every summer I buy excess berries to keep in the freezer for any out of season photo shoots, pictured here). Here though the flavour in the dish comes from redcurrant jelly echoing the Scandinavian love of paring meat with fruit. A side of mesclun and radish salad and baby new potatoes in a dill dressing round of the dish perfectly.
Wheat berries are packed with fibre, protein and iron, so not only do they add a distinctive nutty flavour and texture to a dish, they are very healthy too. I love the pickled onion and dried cranberries here. The salad is sweet, tart and nutty all at once.
Queen of baking and desserts, Mary triumphed with two sensational desserts to round off a very wonderful meal. Swedish pancakes are smaller than their European and American counterparts. They are particularly light too and not dissimilar to the French crepe. The ice cream is incredibly simple (Lingonberry jam is available online or from Ikea and some specialist food shops).
The Norwegians call this cake The World’s Best Cake and they may well be right. A layer of sponge, covered in meringue with toasted almonds, filled with cream and berries – sounds pretty amazing and it is! And just when you thought that sounded good, it even has a tablespoon of vodka in the filling.
This is quite an involved meal so if it seems a daunting task pick and choose the dishes that inspire you the most. There should be something for everyone here. I hope we did Scandinavia proud, I know not everything is authentic but we made avery effort to be as true as we could to the cuisine of the Nordic countries whilst use those ingredients that we could find locally.
THE RECIPES
Smoked herring blinis
Makes: 12
100 g smoked herring
12 quails eggs
1 apple
1 tsp white wine vinegar
12 mini blinis
2 tbsp crème fraiche
a little watercress
extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle
Make the topping. Cut the herring into small bite size pieces and reserve. Very gently crack the quails eggs into small dishes. Poach the eggs in gently simmering water for about 1 minute until soft set. Remove with a slotted spoon and cool in cold water. Transfer to kitchen towel to dry and set aside.
Just before serving very finely julienne the apple and toss with the vinegar. Spread each blini with a little crème fraiche and top each one with a slice of herring, a poached egg and garnish each with the apple and watercress . Season with salt and pepper and serve drizzled with a little oil.
To make red current vodka
Layer 250g red currents and 175g caster sugar in a bottle and pour in 1 litre of vodka. Screw tight and leave to infuse for 2 weeks, gently turning and shaking the bottle from time to time.
Dill crisp breads with goat cheese
Serves: 6
150 g soft goat cheese
3 tbsp buttermilk
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
a handful of nasturtium flowers (optional)
a sprinkling of nigella seeds
a few salad leaves
crisp breads
150 g plain flour
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp baking powder
2 tsp dill seeds or anise seeds
50 ml cold water
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Make the crisp breads. Preheat the oven to 200c/fan-forced 180c and lightly oil 2 large baking trays. Sift the flour, salt and baking powder into a food processor and stir in the dill seeds. Add the water and oil and process until the ingredients just come together. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead dough into a ball.
Wrap in cling wrap and chill for 15 minutes. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface to a large thin rectangle about 2 mm thick. Cut into long thin triangles. Transfer to the prepared trays and bake for about 15 minutes until crisp and lightly golden. Cool on a wire rack.
Combine the cheese, buttermilk, oil and salt and pepper in a bowl until smooth. Spread on a plate and scatter over the nasturtium flowers, salad leaves and the nigella seeds. Drizzle with a little oil and serve with the crisp breads.
Plank barbecued salmon
Serves 6
You will need a thin cedar plank 30cm x 20cm for this recipe, these are available from specialist cookware stores or online.
800g salmon fillet, skin on
2 tbsp sea salt
2 tbsp caster sugar
1 tbsp white peppercorns
1 tsp fennel seeds
large bunch dill
1 tbsp rapeseed oil
sauce
2 tsp each dijon and wholegrain mustard
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp sugar
100g crème fraiche
2 tbsp roughly chopped dill
Line a dish with cling film, large enough to take the salmon. Mix the salt and sugar. Crush the peppercorns and fennel seeds in a pestle and mortar or spice mill and stir into the sugar mix. Finely chop the dill stalks and reserve the fronds for later.
Sprinkle half the salt
mixture over the cling film, then scatter over half the dill stalks. Put the salmon on top and sprinkle with the remaining salt and dill stalks. Cover the fish tightly with cling film and put in the fridge overnight.
The next day, soak the cedar plank in water for 2 hours. Meanwhile, make the sauce. Combine the mustards, lemon juice and sugar in a bowl with a little salt. Stir in the crème fraiche and dill. Chill until required.
Unwrap the salmon and brush off most of the marinade, pat it dry with kitchen paper. Brush the salmon lightly with oil on all sides and place on the prepared planks, skin side down. Cook the salmon for 12-15 mins over hot coals or on a heated griddle pan, covered with a tent of foil, or the barbecue lid. Serve on the board scattered with dill sprigs with a bowl of sauce on the side.
Swedish pickled vegetables
Serves: 6
600ml water
500g sugar
400ml white wine or cider vinegar
1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
2 tsp white peppercorns
2 bay leaves
1 tsp allspice berries
2 cinnamon sticks
250g baby carrots or carrot sticks
250g baby beetroots
1 head fennel
half a cucumber
Put the peppercorns, bay leaf, allspice and cinnamon stick into a large pan and dry roast the spices until they give off their perfume. Add the water, sugar, vinegar and onion and bring to the boil. Stir to dissolve the sugar, then remove from the heat and leave to cool.
Peel and trim the carrots and trim the beets. Cut the fennel into wedges. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil and have ready a large bowl of iced water. Cook the vegetables one type at a time, the beets for 15-20 minutes, the carrots and fennel for 5 minutes. As they are cooked scoop from the water and cool quickly in the iced water. Cut the cucumber into sticks and keep these raw.
When the vegetables are cool transfer to four jars and cover with the pickling liquid. Leave to marinade for 24 hours and eat within 3 days. To serve, drain off the pickling liquid and serve with the mustard cream (recipe above).
Roast glazed lamb with herb flowers and red currants
Serves: 6
2 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary with flowers
2 tbsp dried oregano flowers (or fresh from the garden)* available from specialist stores or online
1 tbsp fennel seeds, crushed
4 whole all spice berries, crushed
1.75 kg boneless leg of lamb, butterflied
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
3 tbsp red current jelly
mesclun, radish and hazelnut salad
3 handful mesclun leaves
6-8 radishes, very thinly sliced
50 g hazelnuts, toasted and roughly chopped
a few red currants, optional
3 tbsp hazelnut oil
2 tsp red wine vinegar
1 tsp whole grain mustard
1 tsp clear honey
salt and pepper
Combine the rosemary, oregano flowers, crushed fennel and crushed allspice in a bowl and add some pepper. Place the lamb on a board and using a sharp knife score the flesh in a diagonal pattern all over. Brush with oil and rub the herb and spice mixture into the lamb, cover and leave to infuse overnight.
Preheat the oven to 230c/210c fan-forced. Arrange the lamb on a rack set over a roasting tin with 150ml cold water in the bottom of the pan. Combine the red currant glaze with a little salt and brush all over the top of the lamb. Transfer to the oven, immediately reduce the temperature to 190c/170c fan-forced and roast for 30 minutes until browned. Remove the lamb to a platter and wrap loosely in foil. Transfer the pan juices to a small saucepan, reducing slightly, if necessary and keep warm.
Just before serving, arrange the salad leaves in a bowl and scatter over the radishes, hazelnuts and a few red currants, if using. Blend together the oil, vinegar, mustard, honey and salt and pepper. Drizzle over the salad leaves and toss lightly. Slice lamb and drizzle over the pan juices. Serve with the salad.
Potato salad with dill salsa
Serves: 6
1 kg baby new potatoes, scrubbed
1/2 bunch fresh dill
1/2 bunch fresh flat leaf parsley
150 ml extra virgin olive oil
1 small garlic clove, crushed
1/2 tsp caster sugar
2 tsp dijon mustard
2 tsp white wine vinegar
salt and pepper
Scrub the potatoes and place in a large saucepan of lightly salted water. Bring to the boil and cook for 10-12 minutes until tender.
Meanwhile, place all the remaining ingredients in a food processor or blend and blend to form a smooth green sauce.
Strain the potatoes and return to the pan, add the pesto and stir well until coated. Serve with the lamb.
Wheat berry salad
Serve 6
300g wheat berries
1 red onion
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
4 tbsp rapeseed oil
100g dried cranberries
50g pistachios, roughly chopped
bunch mint
bunch chives
handful baby spinach leaves
Cook the wheat in plenty of boiling salted water for 25-30 minutes or follow pack timings, then drain well and leave to cool. Peel and thinly slice the onion and mix with the vinegar.
Add the cranberries and pistachios to the wheat berries and mix well. Pick the leaves from the mint and snip the chives, then stir in thoroughly. Add salt and pepper to the onion, then mix in the oil. Tip onto the wheat berries, add the spinach leaves and toss everything together until the berries are glistening.
Lingonberry and cardamom ice cream with Swedish pancakes
Serves: 8
Ice cream
4 cardamom pods
400 ml double cream
400 g jar lingonberry preserve
Pancakes
3 large eggs
350 ml milk
150 g plain flour
50 g butter, melted
3 tbsp caster sugar
2 tsp vanilla extract
butter, for cooking the pancakes
icing sugar for dusting and clear honey for drizzling
raspberries to serve
Make the ice cream. Put a plastic food container into the freezer. Split the cardamom pods, remove the seeds and crush them to a powder in a pestle and mortar. Whip the cream to firm peaks.
Tip the lingonberry preserve into a bowl and fold in the cardamom cream. Transfer to the chilled container and freeze for at least 4 hours, or overnight.
Make the pancakes. Mix the eggs with about ¼ of the milk in a food processor. Add the flour and process again until smooth. Add the remaining milk and all the ingredients and process briefly to mix. Pour into a jug.
Heat a knob of butter in a small pancake pan. Add a tablespoon of batter and cook until the edges turn brown, then flip and cook again briefly.
Keep warm while you make the remaining pancakes. Serve warm with lingonberry ice cream, a drizzle of honey and a light dusting of icing sugar.
Norwegian cloud cake
Serves 8
100 g self raising flour
1 tsp baking powder
100 g caster sugar
100 g softened butter
4 egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tbsp milk
meringue
4 egg whites
100 g caster sugar
100 g icing sugar
2 tbsp flaked almonds
filling
500 g summer berries
1 tbsp icing sugar, plus extra for dusting
1 tbsp vodka, optional
300 ml double cream
1 sachet vanilla sugar
Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C. Line two baking sheets with baking paper and draw a rectangle on each, 10cm x 22cm. Turn paper over and fix to the baking sheets with a little butter on the corners.
Sift the flour and baking powder into a large bowl, add the remaining cake ingredients and beat for 2-3 mins until light and fluffy. Spread half the mixture evenly over each rectangle.
To make the meringue, whisk the egg whites in a large bowl until it forms stiff peaks. Continue whisking while adding the sugars to make a stiff heavy meringue. Spread half the meringue over each cake mixture, spreading it over the edges to enclose it. Smooth one meringue flat and form swirls and peaks with the other. Sprinkle the almonds over the peaks.
Bake the cakes for 30 minutes until the meringue is golden and crisp. Leave to cool on the baking sheets.
Tip the berries into a bowl, halving any that are large and sprinkle with sugar and vodka if using. Stir well, then leave to macerate until the juices flow, about 1 hour.
To assemble the cake whip the cream with the vanilla sugar (or 1 tsp vanilla extract) to stiff peaks. Set a sieve over a bowl and strain in the berries, reserving the juices. Invert one flat meringue cake onto a wire rack, peel off the paper and put the cake on a platter, meringue side down. Spread with the cream and then cover with berries. Invert the other cake, peel off the paper and put on top of filling, meringue side up. Dust with icing sugar and serve cut into thick slices.
Spelt is one of the world’s oldest wheat grain varieties. It is great as an alternative to rice in a risotto as it retains a wonderfully crunchy texture and unlike rice, you can add the stock all at once and let the risotto simmer away on the stove – making it low maintenance as well as delicious.
Serves: 4
300 g spelt grains
15 g dried porcini
150 ml boiling water
100 g butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tbs chopped fresh thyme
500 g mixed mushrooms, wiped clean and chopped
150 ml red wine
1 litre chicken or vegetable stock
50 g Parmesan, grated
150 g Camembert, sliced
salt and pepper
freshly grated Parmesan cheese, to serve
Soak the spelt grains in boiling water for 20 minutes. Soak the porcini in the boiling water for 15 minutes. Drain spelt and shake dry. Drain and chop the mushrooms, reserve the liquid.
Melt half the butter in a saucepan and gently fry the onion, garlic and half the thyme over a low heat for 10 minutes until soft but not browned. Add the mushrooms and porcini and stir-fry until starting to soften. Add the spelt and stir for 1 minute then pour in the wine and boil until it is all but absorbed.
Meanwhile bring the stock and reserved porcini liquid to the boil in a separate pan. Add 750 ml to the risotto and cook gently over a low heat for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the stock is almost absorbed and the spelt, tender. Add a little more stock if needed (any left over stock can be reserved, chilled in the fridge for up to 3 days).
Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the Parmesan and half the Camembert, cover and leave to melt for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, melt the remaining butter in a small frying pan and add the remaining thyme leaves. Cook gently over a low heat for 2-3 minutes until the butter turns a golden brown. Serve the risotto topped with the remaining camembert and drizzled with the thyme butter.
Tip: Spelt is available from larger supermarkets as well as health food stores.
