When a recipe calls for chicken stock, always try and make your own as it really is so worth the effort (which to be fair, is not a actually a big deal). Why? Well, because not only does it taste better, it has no additives, it is so good for you with naturally occurring antimicrobial properties from the bones, and if using a cooked chicken carcass you are also getting more out of your bird and there is less waste.
This recipe uses a whole, uncooked chook, but I adapt it whenever I have any chicken leftover from my Sunday roast. Basically it’s a win win recipe.
Homemade chicken stock
It is always best to make a chicken (or any) stock at least one day ahead of you needing it, as the fat needs to be removed, leaving you with a lovely clean clear liquid. Once made the stock is left to go cold and then it is ready to refrigerate overnight. This sets the layer of fat on the surface of the stock, which can then be more easily removed the next day.
In France (where I live) you can buy several different types of chickens including a boiling chicken, which is an older bird with a good flavour, but the meat is tougher, due to the age. If you can’t get this where you live, a regular large chicken will do. If you can stretch to it, always buy free-range chickens, for ethical reasons.
If you end up making the stock, but not using it within a day or so, then pop it in to the freezer, where it will sit happily for up to 3 months.
Recipe
Makes: approximately 2L/8 cups (the one shown above has been reduced)
a few sprigs thyme a few black peppercorns, lightly bashed
If you are using a raw chicken, wash and dry inside and out, then place in a large saucepan. Add all the remaining ingredients and cover with 2.5L/10 cups of cold water.
Bring the water to the boil skimming the surface with a large spoon to remove any scum. Simmer gently, partially covered, for 3 hours. Strain the stock and leave to cool completely, then refrigerate overnight.
Carefully skim off the congealed layer of fat from the surface of the stock. You can now either use it as it is, or if you want a richer, deeper flavour then return it to the pan and cook again, uncovered this time, until it is reduced and has a depth of flavour you are happy with. Only at this point adjust the seasoning.
Tip. If using a cooked carcass, no need to wash it, simply pop it in the pan and continue as above.
After the terrific success of this year’s workshop in June Come Cook In France and Les Soeurs Anglaises are really excited to announce a further three cookery workshop dates next year in April, June (already fully booked) and September.
Our first will take place in APRIL as spring heralds in some fabulous new year’s produce, including asparagus, spring lamb and the first local strawberries.
Then, as summer makes way for autumn we again celebrate the season’s best produce including mushrooms, pumpkins and figs for our final course of 2002 in SEPTEMBER.
Autumn workshop 17th – 21st September 2020 BOOK NOW
Details
● Four nights accommodation and continental breakfast
● Welcome mezze dinner with wine.
● Three fun, informative, half-day cooking sessions with after-class tasting meals
● An excursion to a local farmer’s market and/or visit to an artisan food maker (vinegar, cheese, nut oils, mushrooms, and/or a vineyard)
● Recipes and a Come Cook In France folder
● 3 light meals including all beverages (wine, waters, etc.)
● Local transport from and to Angouleme train station and Bergerac airport
● *Air and train fares to and from collection points in France are not included.
Prices
A: Single occupancy of Superior double bedroom with en suite: 1350€ per person.
B: Shared occupancy of Superior double bedroom with en suite: 1150€ per person.
C: Single occupancy of Twin bedroom shared bathroom 1100€ per person
D: Shared Twin bedroom / shared bathroom: 950€ per person
Minimum 8 participants (max 12 residents)
A non-refundable deposit of 300€ is required for confirmation of booking
Itinerary
DAY 1 Travel day, you will be sent information regarding transportation to Les Soeurs Anglaises (pick-ups are generally late afternoon) from Angouleme train station and Bergerac Dordogne Périgord Airport (EGC). Welcome, meet and greet dinner at the house.
DAY 2 Morning at the local marché. After a light market lunch, there will be an cookery class in L’Espace kitchen where the evening meal will be discussed and prepared.
DAY 3 We will meet in L’Espace kitchen where we will prepare a three course lunch to enjoy al fresco (weather permitting). The afternoon and evening will be free time for you to relax and enjoy the accommodation. A light evening meal will be provided.
DAY 4 You will have another chance to relax and have spare time to yourselves. There will be a light lunch provided. The afternoon session will be preparing and cooking the four course evening meal, again to be enjoyed together al fresco (weather permitting).
DAY 5 Brunch followed by departures before lunch.
Please note that this is a proposed itinerary and is subject to modest modifications, depending on available fresh produce, new opportunities, and the wishes of the workshop leader.
With the wondrous fresh bounty in our veggie plots, markets and shops, it seems a no brainer that we make the very most of summer ‘s fresh ingredients with some simply delicious main course salads – add a few slices of sushi grade salmon or a local soft goat cheese and summer never tasted do good.
Salmon sashimi salad with quinoa and miso dressing
Serves: 4
150g red or white quinoa
60g baby Asian salad leaves
12 radishes, trimmed and thinly sliced
100g podded Edamame beans
1 small avocado, peeled, stoned and cut into wedges
400g sashimi-grade salmon fillet*
2 tablespoons black sesame seeds
a handful of chives, snipped
chive flowers, optional
Dressing
80ml mirin
75ml sake
1 tablespoon caster sugar
2 tablespoons white miso paste
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
Place the quinoa in a small saucepan with 300ml water. Bring to the boil and simmer gently, uncovered for 10-15 minutes until the grains are al dente and water absorbed. Set aside to cool in the pan.
Make the dressing. Place the mirin, sake and caster sugar in a small saucepan. Heat gently, stirring until it reaches the boil. Simmer for 1 minute, then set aside to go cold. Whisk in the remaining ingredients until evenly combined.
Transfer the quinoa to a bowl and stir through the salad leaves, radish slices and edamame beans. Add half the dressing, stir well.
Season the salmon fillets and sprinkle with the sesame seeds, pressing lightly into the flesh. Drizzle with a little oil. Heat a dry frying pan until hot. Add the salmon and cook for 30 seconds each side until just charred on the outside. Cool for 10 minutes and then thinly slice.
Arrange the quinoa salad on plates with the seared salmon and avocado wedges. Scatter over the chives and chive flowers (if using) Drizzle with the remaining dressing to serve.
Sashimi grade salmon is available from some good quality fishmongers. Ask your supplier and explain what you are using the fish for as it needs to be super fresh. Also if it is designed specifically to made into sushi it will come as a long thin fillet, ideal for slicing.
BBQ’d Korean chicken Noodle salad
Serves: 4
500g skinless chicken thighs fillets
200g dried green tea soba noodles
2 carrots, trimmed
1 cucumber, seeded
1 nashi pear
100g bean sprouts
2 little gem lettuce, cut into wedges
a handful coriander leaves
Marinade
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon caster sugar
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon fresh grated ginger
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon crushed black pepper
Dressing
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
2 tablespoons sunflower oil
1 tablespoon clear honey
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 teaspoons gochujang*
a few micro herbs, to garnish, optional
Cut the chicken into 2cm pieces and place in bowl. Combine the marinade ingredients, pour over the chicken and stir well. Marinate for 2 hours.
Cook the noodles by plunging them into a pan of boiling water. Boil for 4 minutes until al dente. Drain, refresh under cold water and pat dry.
Cut the carrot and cucumber into long thin julienne. Peel, quarter and core the nashi pear and cut the flesh into thin batons. Combine the carrot, cucumber, nashi and bean sprouts. Set aside.
Make the dressing. Toast the sesame seeds in a dry frying pan. Transfer to a spice grinder and grind to a powder. Place in a bowl and stir in the remaining dressing ingredients. Set aside.
Preheat the griddle pan until hot. Thread the chicken pieces onto metal or bamboo skewers and griddle for 3-4 minutes each side until charred and tender. Rest for 5 minutes.
Arrange the noodles in bowls and top with the salad, scatter over the micro herbs, if using. Drizzle over the dressing and serve with the skewers of chicken on the side.
Gochujang is a red chilli spice paste with a sweet, spicy flavour. It is widely used in Korean cooking and is available from specialist food stores or online.
Marinated buffalo mozzarella with orange and fennel with basil oil
Serves: 4
4 x 150g balls buffalo mozzarella
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2-4 oranges, depending on size
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 small head fennel, trimmed
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon honey
75g Niçoise olives, pitted
60g picked watercress leaves
Basil oil
60g basil leaves
150ml extra virgin olive oil
salt
a few edible flowers, such as primulas or nasturtiums, to garnish, optional
Place the mozzarella balls in a bowl. Finely grate the zest and squeeze the juice of 1 orange into a bowl. Stir in the olive oil and season to taste. Lightly toast the fennel seeds and bash with a pestle and mortar. Add to the marinade and pour over the mozzarella. Set aside until required.
Make the basil oil. Wash the basil leaves in cold water. Then blanch the leaves in boiling water for 1 minute. Drain and immediately refresh in iced water. Drain again and dry really well with paper towel. Place in a liquidizer with the oil and a little salt and puree until really fine. Strain the oil through a fine sieve (reserve both the basil pulp and oil, separately).
Peel and cut the remaining oranges into then slices. Shave the fennel into fine slices using a mandolin (or sharp knife) reserving any fronds. Remove the mozzarella balls from the marinade and strain the juices into a bowl. Stir the lemon juice and honey into the marinade to use as the dressing.
Arrange the mozzarella on plates with the shaved fennel, orange slices, olives and watercress leaves. Drizzle over the marinade dressing, basil oil and some pepper. Serve scattered with fennel fronds and edible flowers, if using.
Tip: what to do with the basil pulp. There is still a good flavour in the basil pulp so add a little salt and pepper and toss through pasta.
Carpaccio of courgette, melted goat cheese and lemon with warm honey
Serves: 4
2 large courgettes
60g baby spinach leaves
a handful fresh basil leaves
1 lemon
21/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 sprigs fresh lemon thyme or savory, chopped
200g goat cheese
4 tablespoons clear honey
4 tablespoons toasted pine nuts
25g Parmesan, shaved
Using a mandolin, very thinly shave the courgettes lengthways. Arrange the slices on 4 serving plates, overlapping them to fit, if necessary. Take the courgette trimmings (there will be side
pieces left) and grate then on a box grater. Arrange the grated courgette in the centre of each plate. Top with the spinach and basil leaves.
Grate the lemon zest and set aside. Squeeze the juice into a bowl and whisk in 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, salt and pepper. Spoon about half of the dressing over the courgette carpaccio, set the rest of the dressing aside.
Preheat the grill to medium. Slice the goat cheese into rounds (if not bought as individual rounds) and arrange on a piece of oiled tin foil, on baking tray. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and scatter over the reserved grated lemon zest, chopped thyme or savory and some black pepper. Warm under the grill for 30 seconds or so until just starting to soften.
Meanwhile, warm the honey in a small saucepan until it just starts to bubble. Remove from the heat.
Carefully slide the warm cheese onto the courgettes and scatter over the spinach and basil leaves, pine nuts and shavings of Parmesan. Pour the remaining lemon dressing over the top and finally drizzle the salad with the heated honey. Serve.
Seared tuna salad with crisp flatbreads and aubergine salsa
Serves: 4
2 flat breads or flour tortilla
1/2 teaspoon baharat spice*
4 x 125g tuna steaks
100g Greek yogurt
2 teaspoons tahini paste
2 Lebanese cucumbers, sliced into wedges
50g rocket leaves
Aubergine salsa
1 medium aubergine, trimmed
1/4 red onion, finely diced
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
1/2 small garlic clove, crushed
125g cherry tomatoes, quartered
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
grated zest and juice 1/2 lemon
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons honey
1 teaspoon pomegranate molasse
sea salt and pepper
sunflower for deep frying
Roll the flatbreads up and cut into thin slices to form strips about 5mm thick. Heat about 5cm of sunflower oil in a deep frying pan until hot (check by frying ne strip of bread, it should sizzle as soon as it enters the oil). Fry the bread strips, in batches over a high heat for 1-2 minutes until crisp and golden. Drain on paper towel, transfer to a bowl and add the spice mix and sea salt. Toss and set aside.
Heat a ridged griddle pan until hot. Cut the aubergine lengthways into thin slices about 5mm thick. Brush the slices with oil and season with salt and pepper. Griddle for 4-5 minutes each side until charred and soft. Let cool and then dice the flesh.
Meanwhile, place the diced onion in a bowl, add the vinegar and let soak for 10 minutes. Drain.
Combine the diced aubergine, infused onion, garlic, cherry tomatoes, mint and lemon zest. Season and stir well. Whisk together the lemon juice, olive oil, honey, pomegranate molasses and season to taste. Stir about half through the salsa.
Preheat a griddle pan until hot. Season the tuna fillets and sear over a high heat for 30-60 seconds until cooked to your liking. Rest for 5 minutes.
Beat the Greek yogurt and tahini together until smooth and season to taste.
Spread a little tahini on plates and top with the aubergine salsa, tuna fillets, rocket leaves and crisp flatbreads. Drizzle over the remaining dressing and serve..
Baharat spice is a Middle Eastern/North African spice mix traditional used to flavour meats. You can buy it online or from specialist food stores.
Sweltering temperatures in Europe and beyond have us all craving a little respite and what better way to cool down than with a thirst quenching ice lolly – oh the sheer joy of a popsicle! Today’s fruitier, healthier, innovative and wide ranging versions of frozen ice on sticks are a far cry from the fluorescent, mass-produced, overly sweet versions from our childhood. From artisanal producers to innovative chefs the 21st century popsicle has arrived. Here are a few of my favourites from my latest book The Popsicle Party, published by Ryland, Peters & Small and Cico Books.
Refreshing apple and cucumber pops
Makes: 6-8 popsicles
The name says it all really and so pretty. It’s also great for kids who think they don’t like cucumber. Give them one of these and see just how easy it can be!
4 apples
3 Lebanese cucumbers
Juice 2 limes
100g sugar
Quarter and core ½ an apple and cut into wafer thins slices. Take 1/2 a cucumber and again cut into wafer thin slices. Reserve the slices.
Pass the remaining apples and cucumber through a juicer. Add the lime juice and sugar and stir until the sugar is completely dissolved.
Divide the apple and cucumber slices between the 6-8 moulds and top up with the apple and cucumber syrup. Either add the sticks at this stage or freeze until the mixture is firm enough to add the sticks. Return to the freezer for a further 4-6 hours until frozen. .
To remove the popsicles from their moulds, dip into hot water for a second or two. Gently pull from the moulds.
Lime, pomegranate and rosewater popsicles
Makes: 8 small (80ml)
Pretty in pink may well have been the name of a 70’s pop song, but it works equally well to describe this delicious and refreshing fruit popsicle. The rosewater is lovely with the flavour of the pomegranate and gives it that Middle Eastern allure.
4-5 pomegranates
Juice 2 limes
30 g caster sugar
2 teaspoons rosewater or orange flower water
fresh rose petals, dried rose petals and lime wedges, to garnish (optional)
Cut the pomegranates in half over a bowl lined with a large sieve to catch all the juice. Setting 1/2 a pomegranate to one side, squeeze out as much of the juice as you can from the seeds pressing the seeds down with a metal spoon.
Measure the juice, you need 500 ml for this recipe (chill the rest to drink).
Stir the lime juice, sugar and rosewater into the pomegranate juice and stir until the sugar is dissolved.
Divide the reserved pomegranate seeds between 8 small popsicle moulds and pour in the juice. Either add the sticks at this stage or freeze until the mixture is firm enough to add the sticks. Return to the freezer for a further 4-6 hours until frozen.
To remove the popsicles from their moulds, dip into hot water for a second or two. Gently pull from the moulds.
Banoffee salted caramel creams
Makes: 8
Not sure what there is to say about this other than make it, freeze it, eat it – oh so delicious.
4 tablespoons golden syrup
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
2 bananas
300 ml double cream
25 g caster sugar
25 g blanched almonds
1 tablespoon cold water
a little sea salt
4 tablespoons butter caramel sauce
Place 3 tablespoons of the golden syrup and cocoa powder in a bowl and stir well the cocoa powder is dissolved and the syrup smooth.
Place the bananas, cream and sugar into a blender and blend until completely smooth. Pour the banana cream into 8 popsicle moulds. Carefully drizzle in the chocolate syrup and using a skewer swirl through the cream to form a ripple effect.
Either add the sticks at this stage or freeze until the mixture is firm enough to add the sticks. Return to the freezer a further 4-6 hours until frozen.
Meanwhile, line a small tray with foil. Place the almonds, water and the remaining golden syrup in a small frying pan. Heat gently until the syrup begins to boil. Increase the heat and cook for 3-4 minutes until the almonds are browned and glazed with the syrup.
Transfer the nuts to the prepared tray and sprinkle with salt. Leave to cool. As soon as they are cold, chop roughly.
When ready to serve, pop a small metal tray lined with baking paper into the freezer for 10 minutes to chill. To remove the popsicles from their moulds, dip into hot water for a second or two. Gently pull from the moulds.
Place the popsicles on the prepared tray and immediately drizzle over the caramel sauce and top with the nuts. Return to the freezer for 10 minutes to set.
Tutti Frutti
Makes: 8
Remember ‘rockets’ that multi-coloured ice pop from your childhood? This homemade version looks great and tastes even better than the original.
250 g caster sugar
500 ml cold water
2 oranges
1 lemon
2 limes
125g raspberries
Place the sugar and water in a saucepan and heat gently, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Boil for 1 minute, then remove from the heat and cool completely.
Squeeze the juice of the oranges, the lemon and limes into separate bowls. Add enough of the sugar syrup to sweeten each fruit juice, ending up with approximately 150 ml of each juice (you will still have sugar syrup leftover).
Place the raspberries in a blender with 100 ml of the remaining sugar syrup. Blend until really smooth and then taste for sweetness, adjust accordingly.
Pour a layer of the orange juice into each of 8 popsicle moulds. Transfer to the freezer and allow the mixture to freeze completely (about 1 hour).
Pour in an equal layer of lime juice. Either add the sticks at this stage or freeze until the mixture is firm enough to add the sticks. Freeze again until firm and repeat this process withy the remaining 2 juices. Return to the freezer for a further 4-6 hours until frozen.
To remove the popsicles from their moulds, dip into hot water for a second or two. Gently pull from the moulds.
Buttermilk, raspberry and pistachio pops
Makes: 6 popsicles
Here yogurt and buttermilk are sweetened with agave syrup, a recent addition to the many different types of sweeteners and sugars, has a lower GI than many alternatives as it is largely a fructose based sugar. Now widely available from health food stores and supermarkets, it shouldn’t be too difficult to find – honey can be substituted.
250 ml Greek yogurt
250 ml buttermilk
150 ml agave syrup
125 g fresh raspberries
25 g finely chopped, unsalted pistachio nuts
Whisk the yogurt, buttermilk and agave syrup together until combined.
Divide the raspberries between 6 moulds and top up with the buttermilk mixture. Either add the sticks at this stage or freeze until the mixture is firm enough to add the sticks. Return to the freezer for a further 4-6 hours until frozen.
To remove the popsicles from their moulds, dip into hot water for a second or two. Gently pull from the moulds and dip the ends into the chopped pistachio nuts.
Cool watermelon, strawberry and lemon pops
Makes: 8-10 popsicles
All you need is a slug of vodka and you’d have the perfect frozen daiquiri! But, hey who needs alcohol when you can enjoy this healthier fruit version in the form of an ice pop.
300g strawberries, hulled and halved
3 tablespoons icing sugar, sieved
500 g watermelon
Juice 1 lemon
Combine the strawberries with the sugar and leave for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Discard the watermelon rind and dice the flesh.
Place the strawberries and all the juices, the watermelon and lemon juice in a blender and blend until smooth. Divide the juice between 8-10 small popsicle moulds.
Either add the sticks at this stage or freeze or leave until the mixture is firm enough to add the sticks. Return to the freezer for a further 4-6 hours until frozen.
To remove the popsicles from their moulds, dip into hot water for a second or two. Gently pull from the moulds.
Without wishing to offend churros oficianados, here is my version of this delightfully light, fluffy and totally divine Spanish doughnut. Traditionally Spanish churros are piped, in an almost figure of eight shaped whirl, directly into hot fat and deep-fried before being coated in cinnamon sugar. They can be served as simply as that or they can be served alongside a steaming cup of real hot chocolate. For a slightly more wicked treat I like to dunk them or drizzle them with melted chocolate flavoured with Pedro Ximenez, an intensely dark, sweet dessert sherry.
Having always been a lover of doughnuts (not that surprising really – deep-fried batter, crispy on the outside, light and fluffy in the centre and then dipped in spiced sugar – who wouldn’t) but actually not that crazy about the jam filled ones, I was wowed when I first came across churros on a holiday in Majorca, one of Spain’s Balearic islands – the fact that they were served with chocolate was the icing on the cake.
Developed centuries ago by
Spanish shepherds in the hills, where cooking was limited to cooking over a log
fire, a cake-like batter was dropped into hot fat until crisp and then serve
dusted with cinnamon sugar. Naturally enough the idea caught on and today this
wonderful snack food is popular all over the world, in one form or another.
And now that I live in SW France, the Spanish border is a short drive away, so I get to enjoy one of my favourite dishes much more often with regular trips to Spain’s Basque region. Luckily they have also caught on here in France and you often find a churros van at the local markets and fetes. Normally in France they tend to be served either completely straight or more like these ones, but really the shape is completely up to you – whether you a curly fan or a straight fan – they still taste the same!!
So let’s get cooking.
You will need water, butter – salted or unsalted, is your choice – plain flour, a pinch of salt, 3 medium eggs, caster sugar and cinnamon for the churros. Then for the sauce you need dark chocolate, single or pouring cream and a small glass (or two) of Pedro Ximenez sherry.
Pour the water into a medium saucepan, adding the butter. Place over a low heat until the butter melts. – you are literally warming it enough to melt the butter and there is no need to boil the mixture.
Remove the pan from the heat and tip in the flour and salt in one go. Then beat well with a wooden spoon until it becomes thick and sticky and the mixture comes away from the pan edges.
At this stage you need to allow the batter to cool slightly, so that when the eggs are whisked in, the heat is not so high that it starts to cook the eggs – they will cook once the batter is piped and fried – so using either a balloon whisk or electric beaters, whisk in them in one at a time until you have a smooth batter.
Spoon the glossy batter into a piping bag fitted with a 1 cm star nozzle. Make sure you scrape in as much of the batter as you can, don’t waste any! Meanwhile, heat a good amount of vegetable oil in a wok or heavy-based pan, to a depth of about 7 cm, until it reaches 180c on a sugar thermometer (or until a small amount of the dough sizzles as soon as it is dropped into the oil).
Carefully pipe 15 cm lengths of the dough straight into the oil, using a knife to cut the dough off right by the nozzle. Fry 3-4 churros at a time for 2-3 minutes until crisp and golden, turning half way through using metal tongs. As soon as the churros are cooked, remove them using a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen towel. You can keep them warm in a moderate oven heated to 180C/325F/Gas Mark 4 if you like, whilst cooking some more.
Whilst the churros are cooking, you should have time to mixc the sugar with some cinnamon. Place the mixture on a plate and as soon as the churros are ready roll them in the sugar until they are evenly coated.
Meanwhile, heat the chocolate and cream together in a small pan over a low heat until the chocolate melts. Remove from the heat and stir until smooth, then add the sherry. If you prefer you can do this ahead and warm the sauce through just before serving.
Arrange the churros on a platter and serve with the chocolate and Pedro Ximenez sauce for dipping or if you like drizzle it all over the churros.
RECIPE
Churros
with chocolate and Pedro Ximenez sauce
Serves: 6-8
250 ml water
120 g butter
180 g plain flour, twice
sifted
pinch salt
3 medium eggs (size 3)
75 g caster sugar
2 tsp ground cinnamon
100 g chocolate
150 ml single cream, plus
extra to drizzle
a small glass Pedro Ximenez
sherry
vegetable oil for frying
Heat the water and butter in a saucepan over low heat until the butter melts.
Tip in the flour and salt and beat well with a wooden spoon until the mixture comes away from the pan edges.
Cool for 5 minutes, then whisk in the eggs one at a time, using electric beaters or a balloon whisk, until you have a smooth batter.
Spoon into a piping bag fitted with a 1 cm star nozzle.
Heat vegetable oil in a large heavy-based pan to a depth of 7 cm until it reaches 180c on a sugar thermometer (or until a small amount of the dough sizzles as soon as it is dropped into the oil).
Carefully pipe 15 cm lengths of the dough straight into the oil, using a knife to cut the dough. Fry 3 at a time for 2-3 minutes until crisp and golden, turning half way through using metal tongs. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen towel.
Combine the sugar and cinnamon on a plate and roll the doughnuts in the mixture until coated.
Meanwhile, heat the chocolate and cream together in a small pan over a low heat until the chocolate melts. Remove from the heat and stir until smooth, then add the sherry.
Arrange the churros on a platter and serve with the chocolate and Pedro Ximenez sauce for dipping.
With winter well and truly taking hold here, I start to yearn for spring and all things green. Well luckily you don’t really need to wait at all, there are so many delicious winter greens to keep you going until the first shoots of spring announce the beginning of the new growing season, just a few weeks away.
Here are a few of my favourite winter dishes using a selection of cabbages, leeks and spinach.
Kale ribollita with chargrilled sourdough
A hearty spring soup full of green vitality makes the perfect supper dish with slices of chargrilled garlic bruschetta.
Serves 4
Prep time: 1 hour (includes cooking beans)
Cooking time: 50 minutes
Soaking time: overnight
Ingredients:
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle
1 onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, 2 chopped 1 left whole
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 large leek, trimmed and sliced
1 large carrot, finely chopped
1 large celery stalk, finely chopped
400g can chopped tomatoes
1 litre chicken or vegetable stock
500g kale, trimmed and shredded
4-6 slices sourdough bread
For the beans
125g dried cannellini beans, soaked overnight in cold water
1 onion, quartered
1 garlic clove, peeled
1 sprig fresh rosemary
6 black peppercorns
Method:
Start by cooking the beans. Drain the soaked beans, rinse and place in a saucepan with the quartered onion, garlic clove, rosemary stalk and peppercorns. Add 1 litre of cold water and bring to the boil, skimming the surface. Cover and simmer gently over a low heat for 50-55 minutes or until the beans are tender.
Drain the beans, discarding the the onion quarters and rosemary stalk. Transfer half the beans and liquid to a food and puree until smooth. Return to the pan.
Make the soup. Heat 3 tablespoons of oil in a large saucepan and gently fry the onion, garlic, rosemary and a little salt and pepper for 10 minutes until softened. Add the leek, carrot and celery and cook for a further 5 minutes. Add the canned tomatoes, the cooked bean mixture and stock. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer gently over a low heat for about 20 minutes until the carrots are tender. Stir in the kale and cook for a further 10 minutes until wilted
Meanwhile, heat a ridged grill pan until hot and grill the sourdough until lightly charred on each side. Cut the remaining garlic clove in half and rub over the toast. Drizzle liberally with extra virgin olive oil. Spoon the soup into bowls and serve topped with the bruschetta.
Quinoa salad with broccoli, preserved lemon and avocado oil
The preserved lemon adds a lovely zing to this salad dish with the combination of dried fruits, nuts and green veg. Perfect for lunch.
Serves:
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Cooling time: 1 hour
Ingredients:
200g quinoa
350g broccoli
3 spring onions
1 small avocado
2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as coriander and mint
50g dried cherries
30g pumpkin seeds, toasted
4 tablespoons avocado or extra virgin olive oil
1 lemon, squeezed juice
2 tablespoons finely chopped preserved lemon
2 teaspoons honey
salt and pepper
Method:
Rinse the quinoa under cold water and drain well. Heat a frying pan until hot, add the wet quinoa and stir over a high heat, firstly until dry and then continue for a further 1-2 minutes until lightly toasted and starting to crackle.
Add 450ml cold water and 1/2 teaspoon salt to the pan. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer over a very low heat for 12 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat but leave undisturbed for a further 5 minutes. If there is any liquid remaining drain through a sieve and leave to cool.
Trim the broccoli, discarding the stalk and cut into florets. Place in a steamer and cook over a medium heat for 3 minutes until al dente. Remove and let cool.
In a bowl, lightly whisk the oil, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, the preserved lemon, honey and some salt and pepper.
Combine the quinoa, broccoli, spring onions, pumpkin seeds and cherries. Add the avocado and herbs and toss together. Add the dressing, stir well.
Tip: if you prefer serve this salad warm, rather than allowing the quinoa and broccoli to cool completely.
Orecchiette with softened spinach, Dolcelatte and hazelnuts
A classic combination of spinach and dolcelatte cheese is given a modern twist with the addition of toasted hazelnuts
Serves: 4
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Ingredients:
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 lemon, grated zest
500g spinach leaves, washed
50g hazelnuts, roughly chopped
50g butter
350g dried orecchiette pasta
150g dolcelatte cheese
4 tablespoons mascarpone cheese
salt and pepper
freshly grated Parmesan, to serve
Method:
Heat the oil in a large frying pan or saucepan and gently fry the shallots, garlic, lemon zest and a little salt and pepper over a low heat for 5 minutes until softened. Add the spinach leaves and stir well, then cook over a gentle heat for 2-3 minutes until wilted.
Melt the butter in a small frying pan and add the hazelnuts. Stir over a medium-low heat until the nuts and butter turn a lovely nutty brown colour.
Meanwhile plunge the pasta into a large saucepan of lightly salted, boiling water and cook for 10 minutes or until al dente. Drain well reserving 3 tablespoons of the cooking liquid. Return the pasta and liquid to the pan.
Stir in the spinach mixture, dolcelatte, mascarpone and all the Parmesan. Stir well over a low heat for 1 minute until the pasta is well coated with the sauce. Divide between bowls and serve topped with the hazelnut butter and some extra, freshly grated Parmesan.
Baked savoy cabbage with Emmental and breadcrumbs
A fabulous way to bake cabbages in a creamy, cheesy sauce topped with crispy breadcrumbs and Parmesan. You can use any cheese you like.
Serves: 4
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 35 minutes
Ingredients:
1 medium savoy cabbage. About 650g
25g butter, plus extra for greasing
1 whole nutmeg
500ml single cream
150g Emmental, grated
50g freshly made breadcrumbs
25g freshly grated Parmesan cheese
salt and pepper
Method:
Preheat the oven to 200c/400f/ gas mark 6 and grease a 2.5 litre baking tin with a little butter. Remove any really large tough outer leaves from the cabbage and very carefully cut into 6 wedges making sure you cut through the stalk so that the wedges remain attached at the base.
Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to a rolling boil. Add the cabbage wedges and blanch for 4-5 minutes until vibrant green. Using tongs or a slotted spoon remove the cabbage from the pan. Shake off excess liquid and drain on kitchen towel.
Arrange the wedges in the prepared baking tin. Season with freshly grated nutmeg, salt and pepper and dot over the remaining butter. Scatter the Emmental between the cabbage pressing some down into the leaves and pour over the cream. Scatter over the breadcrumbs and the Parmesan and transfer to the oven. Bake for 30-25 minutes until bubbling and golden.
Thyme beef fillet with anchovy dressing and pangrattata
I am really excited to announce a 3 day / 4 night cookery workshop next June, to be held in one of the most beautiful locations in the region. I have recently begun collaborating with Katie and Mike Armitage of Les Soeurs Anglaises in the Dordogne, where together we host pop up dinners and have formed a private dining club we call La Tablée (the sharing table) for local residents.
Katie has been hosting creative workshops at L’Espace, a superb barn conversion turned workshop venue, so it is the ideal place for me to run my first residential course.
The long weekend will kick off with an evening meal, prepared and cooked by me, welcoming you all to the course. On the first morning you can accompany me to the largest weekly market in the region to discover the season’s best local produce. If you like, this could include a pastry and coffee at the market rather than breakfast at the accommodation.
Light lunches will be provided each day.
After breakfast, on mornings two and three you are free to relax and spoil yourself in the beautiful surroundings, by one of the two pools, or take a walk through the stunning countryside. Extra cookery classes can also be arranged as can visits to local producers or food stores.
All three afternoons will be spent with hands on cooking, where we will prepare our evening meal. I will demonstrate some of the more complex dishes teaching you how to prepare meat, fish, seafood and vegetables. It will be all hands on deck, slicing, chopping, searing and roasting.
Each evening we will sit down to share the wonderful meal prepared together, accompanied of course with complimentary wines.
The workshop includes
4 nights accommodation
3 days of L’Espace workshop with me
All breakfasts, lunches, dinners (served with wine) and refreshments
Snacks and beverages throughout your stay
A morning visit to local market
Pick-up and drop-off at arrival airport Bergerac / train station Angouleme (at allocated times)*
*Air and train fares to and from collection points in France are not included.
Pricing for this 3 night/4 day workshop varies depending on your choice of accommodation. Please see prices below or click here to see our accommodation photo gallery.
A: Single occupancy of Superior double bedroom with en suite: 930€ per person
B: Single occupancy of Twin bedroom shared bathroom 750€ per person
C: Shared Twin bedrrom / shared bathroom: 620€ per person
In order to secure your place on this course we require a 170€ non-refundable deposit to secure a booking, the full balance being payable two months prior to the start of the workshop.
Limited to 10 places
For further information or to book your place on this exciting weekend of cooking, please visit http://www.lessoeursanglaises.com/food-styling-photography
I don’t know why but I can’t stop thinking about chocolate today, must be feeling the need to indulge I guess. Anyway, I decided to take a look back at some of the chocolate features I have done in the past and came across this rather romantic shoot with a kinda glam/vintage/gold look – a bit kitsch I suppose. Well to be honest, the food is the hero and I know they all tasted fantastic.
Whether you call them churros (Spain) doughnuts (UK) or beignets (France) this deep fried pastries are 100% delicious especially when drizzled with a rich chocolate sauce.
Cinnamon spiced churros with chocolate Grand Marnier sauce
Serves: 6
250 ml water
120 g butter
180 g plain flour, twice sifted
pinch salt
3 medium eggs (size 3)
75 g caster sugar
2 tsp ground cinnamon
chocolate Grand Marnier sauce
125 g dark chocolate
100 ml single cream
2 tbsp Grand Marnier
vegetable oil for frying
Heat the water and butter in a saucepan over low heat, stirring until the butter melts. Tip in the flour and salt and beat well with a wooden spoon until the mixture comes away from the pan edges (this will be almost immediate). Leave to cool for 5 minutes.
Using an electric whisk beat the eggs into the dough one at a time until smooth and slightly glossy. Spoon the dough into a piping bag fitted with a 1cm star nozzle.
Heat vegetable oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan to a depth of 7 cm until it reaches 170c/330f on a sugar thermometer (or until a small amount of the dough sizzles as soon as it is dropped into the oil). Carefully pipe approximately 15 cm lengths of the dough straight into the hot oil, using a knife to cut the dough off at the nozzle. Fry 3 at a time for 3 minutes until crisp and golden, turning half way through using metal tongs. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen towel. Keep warm in a moderate oven while cooking the rest.
Combine the sugar and cinnamon on a plate and roll the churros in the mixture until coated.
Meanwhile, heat the chocolate and cream together in a small saucepan over a low heat, stirring, until the chocolate melts. Remove from the heat Grand Marnier. Arrange the churros on a platter and serve with the chocolate sauce for dipping.
Chocolate pecan tartlets
Serves: 6
pastry
200 g plain flour, sifted
1/2 tsp salt
100 g chilled butter, diced
50 g caster sugar
2 egg yolks
2-3 tbsp iced water
filling
100 g dark chocolate
20 g butter
80 g light soft brown sugar
2 medium eggs
100 ml golden syrup
1 tsp vanilla essence
200 g pecan halves
icing sugar, to dust
vanilla ice cream, to serve
Heat the oven to 200c/400f/gas mark 6. Make the pastry. Sift the flour into a bowl and stir in the salt. Rub in the butter until the mixture resembles fine crumbs and stir in the sugar. Make a well in the middle and work in the egg yolks and enough water to just bring the dough together.
Gently work the dough into a ball, flatten to a disc and wrap in cling film. Chill the dough for 30 minutes. Divide the dough equally into 6 and roll each one out to an 18 cm disc. Press into 6 x 12 cm tartlet tins.
Prick the bases with a fork and chill for a further 20 minutes.
Line the pastry cases with baking paper and baking beans and bake blind for 12 minutes. Remove the paper and beans and bake for a further 5 minutes or until pastry is crisp and lightly golden. Leave to go cold. Reduce oven temperature to 170c/325f/gas mark 3.
Melt the chocolate and butter together in a small saucepan, stirring until smooth. Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar. Whisk the eggs, golden syrup and vanilla essence together until smooth and then stir in the chocolate mixture.
Place the pastry cases on a baking tray and divide the nuts between each one. Carefully pour in the filling. Bake the tartlets for 20 minutes or until just firm in the centre, remove from the oven and set aside to cool for 30 minutes. Dust with icing sugar and serve with ice cream.
Triple layer chocolate and Tia Maria mousse
Serves: 8-12
cake base
60 g dark chocolate
2 medium eggs, separated
55 g caster sugar
2 tbsp cocoa powder, sifted
mousse
4 gelatine leaves (200 bloom)
50 ml Tia Maria
300 g dark chocolate
3 medium egg, separated
250 ml double cream
satin glaze
150 g dark chocolate
60 g unsalted butter
90 thickened cream
1 tbsp liquid glucose
Preheat the oven to 180c/350f/gas mark 4 and oil and line the base of a 22 cm cake tin baking paper. Make the cake base. Melt the chocolate in a bowl set of a pan of just simmering water (do not let the bowl touch the water) and stir until melted. Cool for 5 minutes. Whisk the egg whites and sugar together for 3 minutes until thick and glossy and then stir in the egg yolks, cocoa powder and finally the melted chocolate until evenly combined. Pour into the prepared tin and bake for 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to cool in the tin for 5 minutes and then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
Oil and line the base and sides of a deep 20 cm loose bottom cake tin. Press the cooled cake into the base of the tin so it fits as snuggly as possible. Set aside.
Make the mousse. Place the gelatine leaves in a bowl and cover with cold water, leave to soak for 5 minutes until the leaves soften. Squeeze the water from the gelatine and place in a small saucepan with the Tia Maria. Heat very gently, stirring until the gelatine is completely dissolved.
Melt the chocolate in a bowl set over a pan of just simmering water (do not let the base of the bowl touch the water) stirring until smooth. Let cool for 5 minutes, then beat in the egg yolks and cream and stir in the gelatine mixture. Whisk the egg whites in a clean bowl until stiff and carefully fold through the chocolate mixture until evenly combined. Pour over the cake base and chill for 4 hours or until firm.
Make the glaze. Place the chocolate, butter, cream and liquid glucose in a small saucepan and stir over a gentle heat until smooth. Cool for 5 minutes and then very carefully pour over the top of the set mousse. Chill for a further 1 hour until set.
Carefully remove the mousse cake from the tin and peel away the paper. Decorate the top with your preferred decorations. To serve use a knife dipped into hot water to help cut smoothly through the three layers.
Divine chocolate cups with salted cocoa nib caramel shards
Serves: 6
Cocoa nib are lightly crushed cocoa beans. They are readily available from larger supermarkets, health food stores or online.
250 ml double cream
1/2 vanilla pod
125 g dark chocolate
2 egg yolks
1 tbsp caster sugar
salted cocoa nib caramel shards
125 g caster sugar
3 tbsp water
2 tbsp cocoa nibs
1 tsp sea salt
Preheat the oven to 140c/275f/gas mark 1 and place 6 x 100 ml cups or ramekin dishes in a baking tin. Place 175 ml of cream in a small saucepan and scrape in the seeds from the vanilla pod. Heat gently until the cream just starts to simmer, but do not allow the mixture to boil. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 20 minutes.
Melt the remaining cream and chocolate together in a bowl set over a pan of just simmering water (do not let the bowl touch the water) stirring until smooth. Beat the egg yolks and sugar together and stir in the chocolate cream and vanilla cream until combined.
Divide the mixture between the cups and pour in enough boiling water to come half way up the sides. Transfer to the oven and bake for about 30-35 minutes until they are just firm in the middle. Cool and then refrigerate over night.
Make the caramel about 30 minutes before serving. Place the sugar and water in a saucepan and heat very gently without stirring until the sugar is completely dissolved. Bring to the boil and cook for about 5 minutes until the liquid turns a golden caramel colour.
Meanwhile, place a sheet of baking paper on a baking tray and have the cocoa nibs and sea salt to hand. As soon as the caramel is ready pour onto the prepared paper and allow it to form a thin pool. Immediately scatter over the coco nibs and sea salt and set aside to cool and set. Break the toffee into shards and serve a few shards on top of each chocolate cup.
Molten chocolate and dulce de leche puddings
Serves: 4
100 g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing
100g dark chocolate
2 eggs, plus 2 egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla essence
125 g caster sugar
100 g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
4 tsp salted caramel sauce
cocoa powder, to dust
double cream, to serve
Preheat the oven to 180c/350f/gas mark 4. Line the bases and brush the insides of 4 x 150 ml metal dariole molds with melted butter and chill for 10 minutes. Arrange the molds on a baking tin.
Meanwhile, melt the butter and chocolate together in a saucepan, stirring until melted. Remove from the heat and leave to cool for 5 minutes.
Beat the eggs, egg yolks, vanilla essence and sugar in a bowl, using an electric whisk, for 3-4 minutes until thick and fluffy. Sift over the flour and carefully fold in along with the chocolate mixture until smooth.
Spoon half the mix into the prepared molds, add 1 teaspoon of salted caramel sauce to the middle of each one and cover with the remaining chocolate mixture to about 5 mm from the top. Bake for 15 minutes until the tops are set and slightly cracked. Remove from the oven but let cool in the tins for 5 minutes.
Invert the puddings onto serving plates tapping the bases lightly if necessary. Remove the paper from the bases. Dust with cocoa powder and serve immediately with cream.
A dinner inspired by spring, the weather, Scandinavian design, great quality ingredients and sharing ideas and recipes with great friend, food writer Mary Cadogan.
This spring is cold and wet and reminds me very much of the year we arrived in France from Sydney in 2013. We landed in May expecting balmy days and cool but pleasant evenings, but instead it was cold, wet and very grey. Not quite what we had expected but then not much one can do about the weather but get on and do what you love doing best – cooking, eating and sharing meals with friends.
For me inspiration comes from many different things. Travel, shared stories, design, colour, books and loads more. This menu came to Mary and I over a cup of tea (and one of Mary’s delicious ginger cakes) in her kitchen back in early 2014. We decided to collaborate on a Scandinavian inspired dinner and so together we set about creating a meal full of exciting flavours, colours and textures that we felt were all synonymous with the Scandinavian culture.
We start with an apero. Mary’s delicious red currant vodka served with my take on cured herrings. Steep red currants and sugar in a good quality vodka for 2 weeks, turn the bottle and gently shake every few days to help disperse the flavours. The resulting liqueur is vibrant red, slightly sweet and reassuringly warming.
Making the most of the terrific mini blinis so readily available in the supermarket I topped them with smoked herring, creme fraiche, shredded apple and poached quail’s eggs. I like the smoky richness of the fish and the eggs balanced with the freshness of the crisp apple.
The first course is one of my favourite ways of serving a young goat cheese like the Chabichou from the region. Lightly whipped with a little buttermilk and a good fruity extra virgin olive oil. I then serve it with homemade crisp breads flavoured with dill seeds or anise. The flavours combine well and the starter is light. I love the contrasting colours here too with nigella seeds and a touch of summer with nasturtium petals and a few salad leaves. It tastes as fresh as it looks.
For the main course we opted for a meat and a fish dish, either as a sharing course, or for those who have a preference for one or the other. Mary’s marinated salmon (barbecued on a cedar plank giving the fish a lovely deep smoky flavour) is served with pickled vegetables to offset the richness of the fish – it is a fabulous example of a well balanced dish.
Cooking on cedar planks is is actually an ancient way of cooking something that needs to be protected from the fierceness of the flames or heat, as in indirect grilling. The Finnish have loimulohi (blazing salmon) where the fish is nailed to a plank and cooked over coals and the North West coast American Indians used red cedar planks to cook pacific salmon on. Today you can buy varying sizes of cedar planks online or make your own. The wood is pre-soaked in water to prevent it from catching fire. It is fun and does add a light smokiness to the fish.
Spring heralds the arrival of young lambs born over winter and fed on the tender sweet grass shoots that give the meats it’s lovely flavour. Lamb works well with fruit and although fresh red currants are out of season, they are a fruit that freezes exceptionally well, even still on the stalk (as a stylist every summer I buy excess berries to keep in the freezer for any out of season photo shoots, pictured here). Here though the flavour in the dish comes from redcurrant jelly echoing the Scandinavian love of paring meat with fruit. A side of mesclun and radish salad and baby new potatoes in a dill dressing round of the dish perfectly.
Wheat berries are packed with fibre, protein and iron, so not only do they add a distinctive nutty flavour and texture to a dish, they are very healthy too. I love the pickled onion and dried cranberries here. The salad is sweet, tart and nutty all at once.
Queen of baking and desserts, Mary triumphed with two sensational desserts to round off a very wonderful meal. Swedish pancakes are smaller than their European and American counterparts. They are particularly light too and not dissimilar to the French crepe. The ice cream is incredibly simple (Lingonberry jam is available online or from Ikea and some specialist food shops).
The Norwegians call this cake The World’s Best Cake and they may well be right. A layer of sponge, covered in meringue with toasted almonds, filled with cream and berries – sounds pretty amazing and it is! And just when you thought that sounded good, it even has a tablespoon of vodka in the filling.
This is quite an involved meal so if it seems a daunting task pick and choose the dishes that inspire you the most. There should be something for everyone here. I hope we did Scandinavia proud, I know not everything is authentic but we made avery effort to be as true as we could to the cuisine of the Nordic countries whilst use those ingredients that we could find locally.
THE RECIPES
Smoked herring blinis
Makes: 12
100 g smoked herring
12 quails eggs
1 apple
1 tsp white wine vinegar
12 mini blinis
2 tbsp crème fraiche
a little watercress
extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle
Make the topping. Cut the herring into small bite size pieces and reserve. Very gently crack the quails eggs into small dishes. Poach the eggs in gently simmering water for about 1 minute until soft set. Remove with a slotted spoon and cool in cold water. Transfer to kitchen towel to dry and set aside.
Just before serving very finely julienne the apple and toss with the vinegar. Spread each blini with a little crème fraiche and top each one with a slice of herring, a poached egg and garnish each with the apple and watercress . Season with salt and pepper and serve drizzled with a little oil.
To make red current vodka
Layer 250g red currents and 175g caster sugar in a bottle and pour in 1 litre of vodka. Screw tight and leave to infuse for 2 weeks, gently turning and shaking the bottle from time to time.
Dill crisp breads with goat cheese
Serves: 6
150 g soft goat cheese
3 tbsp buttermilk
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
a handful of nasturtium flowers (optional)
a sprinkling of nigella seeds
a few salad leaves
crisp breads
150 g plain flour
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp baking powder
2 tsp dill seeds or anise seeds
50 ml cold water
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Make the crisp breads. Preheat the oven to 200c/fan-forced 180c and lightly oil 2 large baking trays. Sift the flour, salt and baking powder into a food processor and stir in the dill seeds. Add the water and oil and process until the ingredients just come together. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead dough into a ball.
Wrap in cling wrap and chill for 15 minutes. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface to a large thin rectangle about 2 mm thick. Cut into long thin triangles. Transfer to the prepared trays and bake for about 15 minutes until crisp and lightly golden. Cool on a wire rack.
Combine the cheese, buttermilk, oil and salt and pepper in a bowl until smooth. Spread on a plate and scatter over the nasturtium flowers, salad leaves and the nigella seeds. Drizzle with a little oil and serve with the crisp breads.
Plank barbecued salmon
Serves 6
You will need a thin cedar plank 30cm x 20cm for this recipe, these are available from specialist cookware stores or online.
800g salmon fillet, skin on
2 tbsp sea salt
2 tbsp caster sugar
1 tbsp white peppercorns
1 tsp fennel seeds
large bunch dill
1 tbsp rapeseed oil
sauce
2 tsp each dijon and wholegrain mustard
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp sugar
100g crème fraiche
2 tbsp roughly chopped dill
Line a dish with cling film, large enough to take the salmon. Mix the salt and sugar. Crush the peppercorns and fennel seeds in a pestle and mortar or spice mill and stir into the sugar mix. Finely chop the dill stalks and reserve the fronds for later.
Sprinkle half the salt
mixture over the cling film, then scatter over half the dill stalks. Put the salmon on top and sprinkle with the remaining salt and dill stalks. Cover the fish tightly with cling film and put in the fridge overnight.
The next day, soak the cedar plank in water for 2 hours. Meanwhile, make the sauce. Combine the mustards, lemon juice and sugar in a bowl with a little salt. Stir in the crème fraiche and dill. Chill until required.
Unwrap the salmon and brush off most of the marinade, pat it dry with kitchen paper. Brush the salmon lightly with oil on all sides and place on the prepared planks, skin side down. Cook the salmon for 12-15 mins over hot coals or on a heated griddle pan, covered with a tent of foil, or the barbecue lid. Serve on the board scattered with dill sprigs with a bowl of sauce on the side.
Swedish pickled vegetables
Serves: 6
600ml water
500g sugar
400ml white wine or cider vinegar
1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
2 tsp white peppercorns
2 bay leaves
1 tsp allspice berries
2 cinnamon sticks
250g baby carrots or carrot sticks
250g baby beetroots
1 head fennel
half a cucumber
Put the peppercorns, bay leaf, allspice and cinnamon stick into a large pan and dry roast the spices until they give off their perfume. Add the water, sugar, vinegar and onion and bring to the boil. Stir to dissolve the sugar, then remove from the heat and leave to cool.
Peel and trim the carrots and trim the beets. Cut the fennel into wedges. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil and have ready a large bowl of iced water. Cook the vegetables one type at a time, the beets for 15-20 minutes, the carrots and fennel for 5 minutes. As they are cooked scoop from the water and cool quickly in the iced water. Cut the cucumber into sticks and keep these raw.
When the vegetables are cool transfer to four jars and cover with the pickling liquid. Leave to marinade for 24 hours and eat within 3 days. To serve, drain off the pickling liquid and serve with the mustard cream (recipe above).
Roast glazed lamb with herb flowers and red currants
Serves: 6
2 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary with flowers
2 tbsp dried oregano flowers (or fresh from the garden)* available from specialist stores or online
1 tbsp fennel seeds, crushed
4 whole all spice berries, crushed
1.75 kg boneless leg of lamb, butterflied
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
3 tbsp red current jelly
mesclun, radish and hazelnut salad
3 handful mesclun leaves
6-8 radishes, very thinly sliced
50 g hazelnuts, toasted and roughly chopped
a few red currants, optional
3 tbsp hazelnut oil
2 tsp red wine vinegar
1 tsp whole grain mustard
1 tsp clear honey
salt and pepper
Combine the rosemary, oregano flowers, crushed fennel and crushed allspice in a bowl and add some pepper. Place the lamb on a board and using a sharp knife score the flesh in a diagonal pattern all over. Brush with oil and rub the herb and spice mixture into the lamb, cover and leave to infuse overnight.
Preheat the oven to 230c/210c fan-forced. Arrange the lamb on a rack set over a roasting tin with 150ml cold water in the bottom of the pan. Combine the red currant glaze with a little salt and brush all over the top of the lamb. Transfer to the oven, immediately reduce the temperature to 190c/170c fan-forced and roast for 30 minutes until browned. Remove the lamb to a platter and wrap loosely in foil. Transfer the pan juices to a small saucepan, reducing slightly, if necessary and keep warm.
Just before serving, arrange the salad leaves in a bowl and scatter over the radishes, hazelnuts and a few red currants, if using. Blend together the oil, vinegar, mustard, honey and salt and pepper. Drizzle over the salad leaves and toss lightly. Slice lamb and drizzle over the pan juices. Serve with the salad.
Potato salad with dill salsa
Serves: 6
1 kg baby new potatoes, scrubbed
1/2 bunch fresh dill
1/2 bunch fresh flat leaf parsley
150 ml extra virgin olive oil
1 small garlic clove, crushed
1/2 tsp caster sugar
2 tsp dijon mustard
2 tsp white wine vinegar
salt and pepper
Scrub the potatoes and place in a large saucepan of lightly salted water. Bring to the boil and cook for 10-12 minutes until tender.
Meanwhile, place all the remaining ingredients in a food processor or blend and blend to form a smooth green sauce.
Strain the potatoes and return to the pan, add the pesto and stir well until coated. Serve with the lamb.
Wheat berry salad
Serve 6
300g wheat berries
1 red onion
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
4 tbsp rapeseed oil
100g dried cranberries
50g pistachios, roughly chopped
bunch mint
bunch chives
handful baby spinach leaves
Cook the wheat in plenty of boiling salted water for 25-30 minutes or follow pack timings, then drain well and leave to cool. Peel and thinly slice the onion and mix with the vinegar.
Add the cranberries and pistachios to the wheat berries and mix well. Pick the leaves from the mint and snip the chives, then stir in thoroughly. Add salt and pepper to the onion, then mix in the oil. Tip onto the wheat berries, add the spinach leaves and toss everything together until the berries are glistening.
Lingonberry and cardamom ice cream with Swedish pancakes
Serves: 8
Ice cream
4 cardamom pods
400 ml double cream
400 g jar lingonberry preserve
Pancakes
3 large eggs
350 ml milk
150 g plain flour
50 g butter, melted
3 tbsp caster sugar
2 tsp vanilla extract
butter, for cooking the pancakes
icing sugar for dusting and clear honey for drizzling
raspberries to serve
Make the ice cream. Put a plastic food container into the freezer. Split the cardamom pods, remove the seeds and crush them to a powder in a pestle and mortar. Whip the cream to firm peaks.
Tip the lingonberry preserve into a bowl and fold in the cardamom cream. Transfer to the chilled container and freeze for at least 4 hours, or overnight.
Make the pancakes. Mix the eggs with about ¼ of the milk in a food processor. Add the flour and process again until smooth. Add the remaining milk and all the ingredients and process briefly to mix. Pour into a jug.
Heat a knob of butter in a small pancake pan. Add a tablespoon of batter and cook until the edges turn brown, then flip and cook again briefly.
Keep warm while you make the remaining pancakes. Serve warm with lingonberry ice cream, a drizzle of honey and a light dusting of icing sugar.
Norwegian cloud cake
Serves 8
100 g self raising flour
1 tsp baking powder
100 g caster sugar
100 g softened butter
4 egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tbsp milk
meringue
4 egg whites
100 g caster sugar
100 g icing sugar
2 tbsp flaked almonds
filling
500 g summer berries
1 tbsp icing sugar, plus extra for dusting
1 tbsp vodka, optional
300 ml double cream
1 sachet vanilla sugar
Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C. Line two baking sheets with baking paper and draw a rectangle on each, 10cm x 22cm. Turn paper over and fix to the baking sheets with a little butter on the corners.
Sift the flour and baking powder into a large bowl, add the remaining cake ingredients and beat for 2-3 mins until light and fluffy. Spread half the mixture evenly over each rectangle.
To make the meringue, whisk the egg whites in a large bowl until it forms stiff peaks. Continue whisking while adding the sugars to make a stiff heavy meringue. Spread half the meringue over each cake mixture, spreading it over the edges to enclose it. Smooth one meringue flat and form swirls and peaks with the other. Sprinkle the almonds over the peaks.
Bake the cakes for 30 minutes until the meringue is golden and crisp. Leave to cool on the baking sheets.
Tip the berries into a bowl, halving any that are large and sprinkle with sugar and vodka if using. Stir well, then leave to macerate until the juices flow, about 1 hour.
To assemble the cake whip the cream with the vanilla sugar (or 1 tsp vanilla extract) to stiff peaks. Set a sieve over a bowl and strain in the berries, reserving the juices. Invert one flat meringue cake onto a wire rack, peel off the paper and put the cake on a platter, meringue side down. Spread with the cream and then cover with berries. Invert the other cake, peel off the paper and put on top of filling, meringue side up. Dust with icing sugar and serve cut into thick slices.
